I use 6-ton jack stands because they're broader and more stable than the
little 3-ton guys we usually see at auto parts stores. One other thing - I
have a little ritual. Each time I get the car up on stands, before going
underneath, I make a SERIOUS effort to push the car off the stands. I can
never even budge it, but the ritual gives me a bit more piece of mind. I
know this thread has run before, but it bears repeating: never, NEVER use
subsitutes for real jack stands. Especially cinder blocks - we know of a
fellow who was killed when the cinder blocks under his Buick disintegrated
while he was underneath. I know... they look strong - they even hold up
your house, but they won't hold up your car. Your life is worth the cost
of some sturdy jack stands.
>Where you put the stands is a combination of what is available and what you
>are going to work on. For instance if you are going to work on the
>suspension, you would not put the jack stand under the lower control arm.
>Where ever you put the stands BEFORE you climb under the car grab the
>fender/bumper wiggle, shake, bodycheck, and just generally make damn sure
>that stands are secure before you get under the car.
>I have also found that some jack stands are more secure than others, if you
>can't seem to get your stands to feel secure, try buying a different brand /
>In a message dated 12/16/99 10:13:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>> When working on the front of the car, I always put the jack stands beneath
>> the front cross member. This seems to be my only choice of locations, but
>> don't feel very comfortable with it because it's not really biting onto
>> anything--the stands are just resting on a flat, oily piece of steel and
>> very close to each other. But unless I'm missing something, this is my
>> choice of locations.
'73 B - "done"
'76 B - daily driver
'73 GT - awaiting front wings
'65 B shell - awaiting paint
'67 GT - awaiting everthing
'57 ZB - parts car or resto-candidate? - awaiting decision
'49 YT - in "progress"