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Re: MGA Windshield Glass?

To: "Steve Schultz" <sschultz@worldnet.att.net>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: MGA Windshield Glass?
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 22:34:52
At 08:35 PM 1/14/00 -0500, Steve Schultz wrote:

>.... replacing the Windshield Glass on my MGA and wondered if there is any
difference between the Moss windshield and the Victoria British glass. Has
anyone purchased a windshield from either of these suppliers? ....

I dunno about VB, but I bought MGA glass from Moss a couple years ago, and
it was a very nice piece merchandise.  However, ....

In the Moss MGA catalog there is a full page copy of a Service Memorandum,
dated 2 July 1962, related to "Windscreen Reglazing".  This makes a big
deal about how you need to put a packing piece in the bottom frame rail to
support the glass.  This is to assure that the bottom corners of the glass
do not sit on the L-shaped metal corner brackets inside of the frame, which
is known to cause cracking of the lower corners of the glass.  Well, the
Moss supplied glass is different than the original glass.  The general size
of the piece is a bit larger in height, and then the edges are relieved a
little for the first couple inches from each corner.  This allows the glass
to sit on the glazing rubber at the bottom without touching the corner
brackets, and also eliminates the need for the extra packing piece in the
bottom.  Same goes for the other edges and corners of the glass, no way for
the corners to touch anything except the glazing rubber.  So, no extra
packing piece is needed in the bottom frame (won't fit), and you can
dispose of the original piece of wood you (may) find there.

Next a caution note about the fasteners.  The original windscreen screws
were British Standard Whitworth (I think), looking for all the world like
an American standard number 10 screw but with a different thread pitch.
The original screws were 28 threads per inch (or something like that).
Number 10 UNC and UNF threads are 24 and 32 threads per inch respectively,
and SAE 10-32 is similar to the UNF standard.  The new screws and all new
brackets being supplied by Moss are nor #10-32 UNF (or SAE standard).  The
new screws are not compatible with the old brackets, and vice-versa.
Disassembling an old MGA windscreen will probably result in damage to some
of the original fasteners.  It is highly adviseable to get a complete new
set of fasteners before reassembly.  Since the new screws are different
pitch, it is also a good idea to get new tapping plates for the sides and
corner brackets for the bottom corners.  (No, I didn't forget the top
corners, just getting to that).

The next note of caution is about the top corner brackets.  I have searched
high and low, and from every conceivable source I know the new brackets are
all garbage.  With some the top posts are pointing in the wrong direction,
some have the brackets too wide so they don't fit in the channels without
serious filing, and most have the tapped holes misplaced so badly that it's
impossible to get the screws installed.  If someone has very recently
purchased some of these top corner brackets that actually fit I would
surely like to hear about it.  Otherwise, I recommend you retain the
original top corner brackets and very carefully run a #10-32 tap through
all the holes.  You may save about $25 and a lot of grief this way.

If you have a MGA 1500 that does not have the later model top center latch
installed, now might be a good time to consider installing one.  I find
this device does a really nice job of keeping the center of the top bow
down at highway speed, in turn keeping out (most of) the wind and/or rain
that might otherwise blow in your face.  A tiny bit of soft rubber fastened
under the front bow can take care of the rest of that problem.  When you
drill the top frame to accept the catch bracket screws you will be removing
the chrome plating when you drill.  Not to worry, as the underlying frame
is brass there will be no rust to worry about.

If you should perchance take this opportunity to have the frame re-chromed,
don't forget to remove the "AUSTER" plate and drive rivets in advance.
These bits are readily available and inexpensive.

Before installing the glass, preassemble the entire frame to be sure the
fasteners and brackets all fit nicely.  Check inside the frame to be sure
none of the screws protrude appreciably through the inside of the brackets
where they could chip away at the edges of the new glass.  A small abrasive
wheel in a hand grinder can make short work of making the inner ends of the
screws flush with the brackets.

For final assembly put some soapy water on the glazing rubber and you will
be able to easily (relatively speaking) press the new glass and the new
rubber bit into the channels of the frame.  After assembly the glazing
rubber should protrude from the frame on both sides of the glass.  Use a
razor knife to trim the rubber flush with the edge of the frame.

The rest of the job is mostly time, common sense and TLC, but not
particularly difficult.  Rise to the challenge, and enjoy the success.

Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
    http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg


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