for sealing the doors so water doesn't ruin the panels
I simply use 3M spray on adhesive on the door metal
and then stretch a layer of garbage can size green trash bag
across the door face.
Trim to fit, poke a hole through the plastic at all the door panel
fastener holes (so I can see them easier) and install the panel.
The spray on glue hold the plastic sheet just fine and if you need
to get back inside the door, it's a cheap repair of the plastic to just
glue another piece right over what ever spot you had to tear up.
The entire sheet can be pulled off rather easily if needed.
Paul Tegler wizardz@toad.net http://www.teglerizer.com
OBie - '73 BGT - daily driver
http://www.teglerizer.com/mgstuff/ob_description.htm
Punkin' - '78 Spitfire - corner ripping screamer
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit78.htm
Lil' Greenee - '73 RWA Midget - lady killer
http://www.teglerizer.com/midgetstuff/index.html
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Attias <cattias@cats.ucsc.edu>
To: DENNIS COX <djc@appsig.com>; MG Listserver <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: Panel Kit
>Dennis,
>
>Sounds like Moss' upholsery subcontractor screwed up. The Anders
>Clausenger book The Original MG seems to be the unimpeachable
>standard on originality. Don't know the page numbers, but it might
>be worth pointing the problems out to Moss, along with a reference,
>and try getting them to send you the properly trimmed panels.
>
>The white piping on the rails, dash seems particularly tacky. I'd
>call them first, and send it back. Don't know how much complete
>originality is important to you, but it might be preferable to get
>the all-black kit if there isn't a choice.
>
>When I got my kit, it came with a big piece of vinyl and a length of
>piping. If you are covering your own cockpit rails, you could get
>them to send you just the piping.
>
>As to installing, the pieces seemed to fit my '64 pretty well, and
>some of the pre-drilled holes actually lined up with existing holes!
>Finding the holes where the vinyl is wrapped around the panel,
>covering the hole, was sort of a pain--poked at the back with a sharp
>stick or awl, punching them out through the back, making sure I could
>see the hole through the front, marking it in chalk when necessary.
>On the doors I scribed the holes through onto the door, where they
>didn't line up with the originals, and pre drilled, rather than drill
>through the panel, to prevent the drill from catching the foam
>padding.
>
>Where the crank and door handle need to poke through, I cut a small X
>in the material, but you could cut a hole if you are sure you know it
>lines up.
>
>I would put some finish or preservative in the back of the door
>panels. I found that water that gets past the door seals gets the
>lower edge of the panel wet, and it does not dry quickly. I was
>concerned about the plywood getting moldy or de-
>laminating. I am experimenting with clear vinyl sheeting
>silicone-glued to the door panel as a water excluder--don't know if
>it really works yet.
>
>Good luck,
>Chris Attias
>'64 MGB
>'84 Alfa Romeo GTV-6
>
|