About rubber suspension components:
It seems to me that the quality of rubber used in
suspension parts currently available may not be as good
as OEM. I rebuilt the entire suspension of my '78 B
using a combination of rubber bushings and pads from
TRF, VB, and Moss. A year later while I was still
working on the car, the pads/bushings had pretty much
all crumbled, and the car had not even been on the road
yet.
I replaced all of the rubber parts with Prothane
urethane. It is not much harder than the rubber, the
ride is not harsh, the chassis feels firm and
responsive, and I expect the urethane to last much
longer than rubber.
Something to think about if you only want to replace
those pads once.
Scott Pontius
'78 MGB V8
San Diego
> Thanks for the info Mark. You've talked me into doing it. Motorhead here in
> Northern Virginia wants $225 to do them. His prices are outragious! I'm
> trying to get the car to pass Maryland inspection and had to replace the
> steering rack. I bought the rack and decided to have a shop do it just to
> save me the frustration of trying to makeshift something to aline the
> steering shafts and re-mounting the rack just to get the right amount of
> shims in there. He still wants to charge me $260 when other shops up here
> charge $130 if you have the part. I was missing those #$## clips on the rear
> wheel cyclinders and asked him how much he wanted just to put the two clips
> on...$35! The only reason I went to him is because they were nice enough to
> do a free tech session for our local MG club and I wasn't aware of any good
> shops in the area. They also seem to have one of the best reputations for
> quality repairs. Sorry for venting!
>
> Does anyone else find these prices a bit high? But thanks for the details
> for replacing the pads. That's what I love about this list...you learn alot
> and keep from going to the poor house. And it's fun!
>
> Thanks
>
> Scott
> 76 B
> ---------- Original Text ----------
>
> From: <IfixMGs@aol.com>, on 5/10/2000 8:53 AM:
>
> Has anyone heard of a sub frame pad for the front suspension of a 76 B? My
> local shop says I need to replace them because the front end is starting to
> move? I've never heard of this before. They also ran a compression test on
> the old engine....150, 80, 110, 130. Will I need a rebuild real soon? What
> would cause No. 2 to be at 80? Bearing, ring? It doesn't blow smoke or
> consume and oil. Seems to run okay too. Hopefully it can hold off until
> later this year. I'll double check it when I get it home.
> SCOTT:
> I just finished a 2 week refurb of a 77 which hit a pothole so large
> that the car came to a dead halt inside the hole from 35 mph. The owner
> continued to drive it without an inspection for nearly a year!
> All 4 of the subframe bolts were loosend, and the pads between the
> crossmember and the body simply vanished thru the pulverization process.....
> The crossmember pivoted like the front end of a radioflyer wagon, and
> whenever the brakes were applied with the wheels turned, the car went out of
> control, but he pressed on, including several 500 mile round trips to the
> mountains! He had it checked out once at a garage, but they jacked the car
> from the crossmember, forcing it tight against the frame rails, and
> pronounced everything hunky dory, saying that little cars never handle
> well(????) This car needed new springs, kingpins, shocks, bushings and A
> arms to the tune of $600, but replacing the pads shouldn't run more than $140
> (2 hrs labor and parts) by someone not well versed in MGBs, and less if the
> guy really knows his stuff (and all goes well.....) I charge $100 plus pads,
> as a flat rate.
> Over the years, I've found many Bs with loose/missing and worn pads.
> The job is actually quite easy, and can be done with a floor jack,
> some jackstands and a 1/2" drive ratchet, 3/4 amd 5/8 sockets. short
> extension and breaker bar, and a 3/8 drive 9/16 socket and 9/16 wrench. With
> the car on jackstands (tires about 3" off ground, center the floor jack on
> the crossmember. Remove the 4 steering rack bolts, and the 5/8" bolts that
> hold the steering knuckles to the king pin swivels. Remove the 4 locknuts
> from the top of the frame rails and lower the front crossmember just enough
> to r&r the pads. I always stuff a piece of foam in the hole accessing the
> two forwardmost bolts to keep them from falling inside the crossmember and
> wasting time retreiving them. Replace all 8 pads (I use trimmed down spring
> pads when out of stock.....) and torque the daylights out of the nuts (really
> torque them to the book-spec...) and refit the steering rack. Last one I did
> took 45 minutes start to finish using an impact gun and air ratchet.
> Your compression numbers sound like valves are in need of a regrind.....
> Mark Childers Union Jack Spares VA Beach VA
>
>
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