Chris Attias had this to say:
>Well, I didn't actually get my engine and transmission pulled this
>weekend to find out what's wrong, but did get most of the ancillary
>One thing that occurred to me was that I might need to find other
>lifting points for the engine. A while back, I replaced the iron
>head with aluminum. The traditional lift brackets attach to the
>rocker studs, that are attached to the head casting. The aluminum
>seems a little weak to be hanging all that iron off of. Anyone have
>a favorite alternative method /points of attachment?
I tend to use the front and rear engine plates for lifting --- say, the
right front (alternator bracket hole) and the left rear (bell housing
bolt), or whatever looks like it will balance best, with a long chain to
clear the rocker cover. I have never felt comfortable using a head stud
or manifold stud -- too annoying if they break off, or bend and jam. I
use grade 5 bolts that aren't part of my MG, with several washers to
space out the chain links from the engine. I might wrap some shop rags
around the chain at chafe spots.
>This is becoming one of those classic "since I'm going to so much
>trouble, I might as well..." jobs.
Beware that syndrome. Of course it depends when you need/want to get back
on the road. Oil seals and clutch are worthwhile at this point, though,
and shouldn't delay things at all, really.
>I'm noticing all the bits that
>could use degreasing, repainting, inspection, etc. The most
>worrisome is that when I drained the oil, I found a small chip of
>cast iron (?) almost big enough for the folks at the NTSB or the FAA
>to identify ("Looks like the tip of a compressor blade from the
>outboard engine--probably sheared in a bird strike...") I'll pull
>the pan and inspect.
That's a little scary. But not enough evidence to panic over, yet, IMO.
>I have a slightly used Elgin street cam (removed from another engine
>to pass SMOG) that I was thinking of installing, which means new
>lifters. It really isn't the best cam for the compression and valve
>sizes I'm running, so this probably isn't worth doing unless the cam
>lobes are looking bad.
I'd pass on this, unless, as you say, the cam looks really worn. But then
you'd be getting into full rebuild mode ("might as well" do rings,
bearings, etc), and wouldn't be on the road again for quite some time.
>A file that big?
>It might be very useful.
>But now it is gone.
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.