At 09:57 PM 11/4/01 -0400, Enrique Claure wrote:
>.... If I plan to remove the cam with the engine inside I guess I must
>
>1. Remove Radiator
>2. Remove Head
>3. Remove Front engine Cover
>4. Remove Chain and Tensioner
>5. Pull the cam out.
>
>Anything else I am skipping? Thanks, Enrique
Yes, you missed a couple of small steps, but you also included one that you
don't have to do. You don't have to remove the head. SURPRISE! But you
will have to R&R the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Remove radiator, crankshaft pulley, timing cover, timing chain tensioner
and sprockets and chain. Also remove the thrust plate (3 screws) that
locates the front of the cam front to back.
Remove valve cover, back off all of the rocker adjuster screws, move the
rockers to the side out of the way. For the front and rear ones you need
to remove the rockers from the ends of the rocker shaft.
Remove the tappet covers on the left side of the block. In case you
haven't figured this out yet, you will have to remove the intake and
exhaust manifolds to get to the tappet covers. Pull the pushrods out the
top, and lift the tappets out through the side. If you are installing a
new cam, discard the tappets, as you will have to have new ones to go with
the new cam.
You should also remove the distributor, and the dizzy mounting base, and
withdraw the dizzy drive gear from the block. You might get the cam out
without doing this, but you will surely lose the index position of the gear
in the process, and would have to R&R the gear later anyway to realign the
dizzy drive after the new cam is installed.
You can reinstall the cam sprocket temporarily to use as a
handle. Withdraw the cam from the front of the engine. By the time a cam
lobe gets into the vacinity of the oil pump drive gear the cam bearing
journals will be out of the bearings, and the cam can be turned or moved
latterally slightly to clear the oil pump drive gear. As such, you don't
have to R&R the oil pan or the oil pump.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Use lots of grease or assembly
lube on the new cam lobes. Install new tappets. Do try to get the timing
sprockets aligned correctly the first time.
You may also consider replacing the cam front retainer and thrust plate, as
it has a soft bearing material on the back side. When that part wears from
the cam rubbing, it can allow increased end float for the cam when
running. This is not generally a serious problem, but it can cause an
irritating tapping noise that may sound suspiciously like a knock from a
bad connecting rod bearing.
Enjoy the wrenching,
Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg
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