Hi,
The fuel gauge calibration is reasonable easy to do and will prevent sudden
sputters!
Your detailed story helped me well on this Paul.
The cork plugs in the gauge are broken however.
How important is it to cover the holes again?
Are there any alterantives?
Cheers,
Hans
-----Original Message-----
From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net [mailto:paul.hunt1@virgin.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 3:43 PM
To: Tim Economu; mpountney@primus.com.au
Cc: MG List
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge sender testing
Shouldn't have to drain it either. On my 73 and 75 with the rear left
corner raised I can change the sender with nearly 1/2 a tank. My full and
empty readings are a little higher than Tim's, but of the same order. If
you DO change the sender check the calibration of the new sender at 'E'
ASAP. The first time I changed mine it still showed 1/8 tank when it
spluttered to a halt.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Economu" <economu@whidbey.com>
To: <mpountney@primus.com.au>
Cc: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 4:08 PM
Subject: Fuel gauge sender testing
> Smithy from Oz..... says:
> > I wish i could get my fuel guage to work..it either registers full or
> > empty.........never in the middle......
> > suppose one day I'll have to pull the sender unit , after draining the
> > tank of course. The last sender unit I replaced was in my Cessna
> 172.....At
> > least thats in the TOP of the tank!!!!!!
>
> Well you don't mention year, but on my 69 BGT, the resistance from the
> sender is 20 ohms full tank and 250 ohm empty. Just put a Fluke meter on
the
> sender (disconnect one wire going to meter for accuracy) and you can
verify
> the readings. That will tell you if the problem is the sender. Since the
> sender could be getting stuck at either full up or full down positions,
that
> is my guess. Only takes a minute to test!!
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