I took a look on the archives and found nothing on this topic, so here
goes...
Anyone had a fit with the new one-piece molded plastic floats (no bendable
level-arm) that SU's providing these days? No arm to bend = shim the needle
seat to adjust level I guess (shades of Mikuni and Solex!), which raises a
question...what's the clearance spec on the new one-piece plastic float when
used in an original-type float chamber lid? 1/8" (original spec with a
bendable arm float) appears to me to be way too high for the new floats. Is
the bottom line just suck it up, pilgrim, and buy a new float chamber lid,
etc.? Any help would be appreciated, thanks much!
BTW, the head is just about converted (hardened seats, new valves, bronze
guides, etc.) and I'm pulling the bottom end tomorrow to see why #2 is oily
(suspect a stuck oil control ring). The bore dimensions appear good enough
to support a glaze-breaking hone and re-ring, etc., and away I
go...hopefully!
Life is like pulling the engine apart, you never know what you're going to
get until you yank the pistons!
F. J. (Lane) MacFarlane
Houston, TX
1967 MGB, mileage unknown (the red terror, soon to be named)
1982 Plymouth Turismo 2.2 L 98 kmi (the black terror, driven by a teenager
now, heaven help the clutch!)
1985 Plymouth Voyager 2.6 L 144 kmi (the rust-coloured Energizer bunny van,
it just keeps going...)
1994 Plymouth Voyager 3.3 L 121 kmi (the family chariot terror)
unapologetic PO 1967 English Ford Anglia 123E (Alfie, RIP)
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