Some of the symptoms indicate a possible flooding or too rich a fuel
mixture. Next time the car is hot and won't start, you could do a few
additional checks - remove the spark plugs and look for wetness and black
color on the electrodes, maybe crank the starter a few seconds with plugs
out and then put the plugs back in and try a restart.
A check of the fuel level in the float bowls when the car won't start will
tell you if there is a vapor lock or fuel delivery problem.
David
67 BGT
72 B
At 12:23 PM 6/30/2002 -0400, Craig D. Niederst wrote:
>I replaced the leaky fuel tank on my '71 B last weekend with one of the
>non-vented pre-'70 type. I also replaced the older style fuel neck and
>vented gas cap, so in theory everything should be OK. If the car is cold
>(i.e. not started for awhile...like overnight), it starts right up and runs
>great. It will the continue to run fine for ~20 minutes or so, when it will
>begin to stutter, and then die within 5 minutes. It seems if I leave the
>bonnet up, the car will run longer (maybe 30 minutes or longer) before it
>dies. At this point, the car will not restart unless I wait for at least 1-2
>hours for it to cool down. The temp gauge in the car reads in the N range,
>and the engine is getting fuel. When trying to start the car when it has
>died, the fuel pump acts kind of crazy. It will at times pump like mad (many
>clicks in short succession), and at other times act normally (a click every
>second or two). The fuel pump does this if I am cranking or just have the
>ignition on. I can smell gas at this point, but I cannot see it leaking from
>anywhere (engine bay or from the lines or tank). Now it has been 90 degrees
>around here of late, and it was much cooler before I replaced the fuel tank
>when the car ran fine. I briefly had this problem last summer, and when I
>replaced a suspect ignition coil, the problem went away. I guess the
>ignition coil wasn't the problem after all. Any ideas?
>
>Craig
>'71 B
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