Joseph - Next time, try opening the bleed screw before applying pressure...with
it closed, you are forcing the fluid (and what ever gunk is in it) up into the
master cylinder bore & reservoir. Also, as noted on this list recently, a lot
of
junk collects in the caliper bores over time...you are also compressing
sludge/ramming the piston over it as you push that piston back. You would be
surprised at the amount of sludge in the bore should you take the thing apart.
By the way, whoever loosened the wrong bolts recently need only to re-tighten
them: no harm done. The calipers can be split during rebuild regardless of
what
the book says (how else could you clean them effectively?). However, the square
cut o-ring is not part of a rebuild kit & must be saved for reuse. Since it is
not a moving part, it suffers no wear over time & can be reused without problem.
Jim Evans
joseph cianciotti wrote:
> Since we're on the subject, last time I changed my brake pads, It was kind
> of tough to get the pistons back into the calipers. This maintenance video
> shows a technician easily working them back in with a large screw driver,
> the books simply say to push them back in and my neighbor said to remove the
> whole caliper assembly and use this device he uses on his Ford (Even though
> my calipers don't have the requisite cut-out to use the gizmo.) I ended up
> using a c-clamp. Needless to say, the 15-minute job turned into a much
> longer one. Is there an easier way? Thanks way in advance (The last set of
> pads lasted 40k miles so I won't have to do this again for a while.)
>
> Joseph
> 67 MGB Roadster
>
> > On Wed, 21 Aug 2002 22:02:22 -0600 "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> > I removed the wrong bolts when removing my brake calipers on my '70 B.
> > (Just one side!) I figured that out when brake fluid started oozing
> > out.
> >
> > I read through my manuals on checking them, haven't done it yet. I am
> > guessing the calipers are 32 years old, though I have no way of
> > telling. I am considering replacing them, though I have had no trouble
> > with them. If the surfaces are still smooth and show no damage, should
> > I worry? Do they wear and yet remain smooth? How about rebuilding
> > them? I know moss says not to bother with the clutch master...
> >
> > They are about $100/each for rebuilt ones, so they aren't free, but at
> > the same time, failed brakes cost much more.
> >
> > Thanks for considering it with me...
> >
> > It is good to work on my car again.
> >
> >
> >
> > - --
> > Andrew Lundgren
> > lundgren@byu.net
> > http://www.Lundgren.us
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