> I've been reading the list for several years, just trying to
> learn as much as I can from the experts. I was curious what
> was so bad about the Weber DGV carb, because I have one on my
> 72 mgb (it was installed by the PO). I personaly like it,
> except that it seems to always run rich no matter how I meter it.
>
> On another note, does anyone have experience with all of the
> dash gages,brake lights, and turn signals going 'out'
> together at random times, only to reappear at other random
> times? I suspect its a loose connection somewhere, but what
> connections would these all share?
Jason:
The DGV conversion is a simple bolt on carb and manifold that is relatively
cheap, works reasonably well and is a bit easier for people with American
automotive experience to understand.
Out of the box the accelerator pump and progression circuits do not match
the B series engine demand accurately which tends to cause a bog just off
idle and the small primary although giving good economy IMHO somehow reduces
the right foot experience compared to twin su's. Compared side by side, a
pair of 1 1/2 SU carbs in standard tune give better drivability and esthetic
pleasure, and the measures needed to balance and tune the SUs are a part of
the history and group mind of MG ownership.
On your electrical failures. Check the fuse box, the circuits involved are
all "green" ignition switched, fused circuits. The connection they have in
common is the fuse box. Corrosion occurs between the riveted joints on the
back of the box which can cause intermittant failures such as you describe.
I strongly recomend replacing the fuse box, as this is an easy and
relatively cheap way to prevent future problems.
Kelvin.
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