Eric J Russell wrote:
> IMO, the best "bang for the buck" is the dual SU's & stock exhaust manifold
> that goes with the SU intake manifold. Webers may get bragging points but
> you'll not win the "bang for the buck" contest. Look for some used parts on
> eBay and rebuild the carbs - you'll be all set for 1/2 (or less) the cost a
> Weber.
>
> It would also probably be worth the investment to install a good 'street'
> camshaft. I've read that the stock camshafts on the later models were not of
> the best quality. I know that it was in bad shape on the engine I rebuilt
> for our '78 MGB.
>
> I bought my engine parts and received good advice & service here:
> http://www.brittek.com/
I have been building MOWOG 4-cylinder street/track engines for my own
projects since 1964. I like 1275's with about 9/1 compression, single
HIF6 SU with upgraded needles and dashpot springs, APT/Vizard 286
scatter cam, standard flywheel, Kept below 7k rpm. I like to do my own
heads, with hand-held power tools.
I'm planning to build an MGB 1800 cc engine this year or next. I'm
thinking I want to try the 296 scatter cam from the two Davids, since
it's a larger engine. I'm thinking I might like a pair of HIF6's or the
equivalent HS's, since I personally don't think Webers are all that hot.
In my own experience, especially in competition, it's far more important
to finish the race than it is to be the most powerful for a few laps,
especially because the most powerful is rarely the fastest. It's great
to hold course lap records, but it's way more important to win, and to
win you have to finish. So I don't like to take the machinery to the
limit and possibly break it, therefore I don't build it to be easily
taken to that length. Especially for a road/track car or even just a hot
street car, reliability and derivability should be maintained as much as
possible when modifying the mechanicals.
-Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com
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