If it sat a while, the clutch disk rusts to the flywheel. Get it to a big
parking lot, and start it in 2nd gear. Drive it around the parking lot
while pumping the clutch and it should break loose. If that doesn't work,
jack up the rear wheels, start it in 4th. Get the rev's a little high, and
CAREFULLY have someone open the release on the jack. It'll drop the car,
and as soon as the wheels hit the pavement, it should break it loose.
Precautions are to not hit anything, or have anything you may hit using
either method, empty parking lots are best...
TJ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Schroeder
> Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 11:20 AM
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: sticking clutch?
>
> I'm "in progress" with a 1972 MGB Roadster and am hopeful
> that there is an easier solution than what my objective sense
> tells me is the only way out. I bought the car from a person
> for whom it was a daily driver. He indicated that he parked
> it about two years ago when the master brake and clutch
> cylinders started to leak and he had plans to rebuild it. He
> says that the clutch was fine and working with no slippage
> when he parked it. I towed it home about 50 miles with the
> front wheels on a dolly and obviously with the car in
> neutral. I rebuilt both master cylinders and the clutch
> slave cylinder and bled it out properly. I get almost 3/4
> inch travel at the slave cylinder rod when the pedal is
> depressed. The problem is that the clutch itself does not
> release when the pedal is depressed and I cannot get it into
> gear. Have any of you ever encountered a "stuck" clutch
> plate? The only logical alternative that I know of is a bad
> or missing throwout bearing or a broken horn !
> on the yolk for the throw-out bearing. Both will require
> removal of the engine and while I can do that, I would prefer
> a simpler solution. Any thoughts? Thanks. Fred
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