In addition to the two methods described elsewhwere, I have some variations
on the theme:
RE: Driving around in second gear. If pumping the clutch doesn't do it, hold
the clutch down and continue driving, periodically abruptly coming off the
throttle and braking (try not to stall the engine), then jumping back on the
throttle.
RE: Jacking the car up and dropping it. A more gentle method is to jack up
the rear of the car, start the car, and at a moderate speed apply the
handbrake and stomp on the footbrake.
Hope one of these methods helps...
Chris K.
Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2005 11:20:18 -0500
From: "Fred Schroeder" <fschroed@mindspring.com>
Subject: sticking clutch?
I'm "in progress" with a 1972 MGB Roadster and am hopeful that there is an
easier solution than what my objective sense tells me is the only way out. I
bought the car from a person for whom it was a daily driver. He indicated
that he parked it about two years ago when the master brake and clutch
cylinders started to leak and he had plans to rebuild it. He says that the
clutch was fine and working with no slippage when he parked it. I towed it
home about 50 miles with the front wheels on a dolly and obviously with the
car in neutral. I rebuilt both master cylinders and the clutch slave
cylinder and bled it out properly. I get almost 3/4 inch travel at the slave
cylinder rod when the pedal is depressed. The problem is that the clutch
itself does not release when the pedal is depressed and I cannot get it into
gear. Have any of you ever encountered a "stuck" clutch plate? The only
logical alternative that I know of is a bad or missing throwout bearing or a
broken horn !
on the yolk for the throw-out bearing. Both will require removal of the
engine and while I can do that, I would prefer a simpler solution. Any
thoughts? Thanks. Fred
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