The clutch slave should have a spring in the cylinder first, with a plastic
disc on the end, facing outwards. The seal goes next with the flat side
facing out and the recessed side against the plastic disc on the spring. Then
the piston with the flat face against the flat face of the inner seal, and the
side with the conical depression facing outwards. Then the rubber boot goes
on. The push-rod pivoting on a clevis pin in the end of the release arm goes
through the boot and into the conical depression of the piston, which locates
it. With all the correct parts in the correct place with correct orientation
there is no way the seal can tilt. It can still leak if the seal is bad or
the cylinder has been reamed out too far.
You say you had a 'good pedal' before fluid poured out again, do you mean the
release arm that sticks out of the bell housing was moving as it should? If
so then there is nothing wrong with the clutch itself, you simply have a bad
slave. You say you 'put a new one in', do you mean a new seal or a new slave
cylinder? In either case there is still something wrong with the slave, you
don't blow the seals when you stand on the brake pedal and you shouldn't blow
them on the clutch either even if the release arm *isn't* moving as it
should.
I definitely wouldn't belt the release arm with a sledge-hammer, but you can
certainly use a pry-bar or whatever to get some leverage on it to check it
*does* move. Incidentally the outer end i.e. the push-rod and clevis pin only
moves about 1/2" in normal use, don't try and force it any more than that.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
swapped it, no clutch. tried to bleed the clutch; fluid came pouring out
of
the dust cover (this is an aftermarket one, not the original type). took
it
out, took it apart, and the seal had turned sideways so fluid was going
past
it. put it back in correctly, reinstalled it, bled it, same problem. put
a
brand new one in; same problem. bled it and it was getting good pedal and
then boom - fluid pours out of the dust seal.
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