If I recall correctly, the bolts that secure the heater valve in my
car have pointed ends. It is possible that some electrolytic action
caused this, but I don't think so. When I bought the car, there was no
heater valve and a blanking plate was fitted. It's been a few years
since I put a valve in place (replaced twice since), but I think I
used the same bolts.
The last time I replaced the valve, I did ensure that the threads were
clean, so that I had no need of tools to get the bolts screwed in all
the way and they only needed a final tightening with a spanner.
On Sat, Oct 31, 2009 at 8:52 PM, Barney Gaylord <email@example.com> wrote:
> Absolutely yes. The Service Parts List shows the cylinder head with a
> blanking plate using lockwashers and hex hed scerws, 1/4-28-UNF x 1/2"
> The flange on the heater valve is thicker than the blanking plate, so 1/2"
> long screws are not long enough to secure the valve. Unfortunately the SPL
> does not call out the screws used when the heater is installed.
> The tapped holes are not very deep in the head, so it is a bit tricky to
> screws the right length for this job. I used to measure carefully, then
> screws to the exact length needed. With more experience I found it is
> easier to use threaded studs with lock washers and hex nuts. You can make
> your own threaded studs starting with a long 1/4-28-UNF screw. If
> necessary, cut the threads farther along the shank before you cut the head
> off. Then cut it off to make a 1/4-28-UNF x 1" long stud (2 pieces). When
> in doubt, make it 1/8 inch longer. Works a treat.
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude
> At 06:29 PM 10/31/2009 -0400, Tom Gunderson wrote:
>> I am putting my cylinder head and all the parts back together for my 1500
>> Does anybody have a better way to put the heater valve back on the head
>> after the head is mounted. I have a updated oil filter and the pipe on top
>> of the filter mount is very close. Can I change the hex head bolts for
>> threaded rods and use nuts to mount the valve? ....
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