Easily? With a 4" wrench that is 75 lbs. of force you have to apply.
Rick
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 7, 2010, at 16:55, Max Heim <max_heim@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Something is wrong here. 25lb/ft can be easily applied with one hand on a
> 4-inch box wrench. Hard to strip anything bigger than a 5/16 nut if it's
> made out of anything tougher than pot metal.
>
> Try using a box wrench instead of the torque wrench and just tighten it
> "good and tight", not "as hard as you can". If it still strips, go to a
> reputable store and get Grade 8 nuts.
>
> If you have a pop-off torque wrench, I'd say it's definitely way off -- get
> it calibrated.
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
>
>
>
> on 10/7/10 12:04 PM, Clayton Kirkwood at crk@godblessthe.us wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>>
>> I am putting my rocker assembly back on my head after putting new valve
stem
>> oil seals in in an attempt to see where my oil consumption is coming from.
>> While tightening the nuts down on the studs, I continue to have a problem
>> with the threads of the nuts ripping out. I went to the local parts store
>> and asked for grade 5 nuts hoping that the problem was with the nuts being
>> ungraded. I continue to have the same problem: I tighten the nuts down to
>> 25lbft but they never tighten and I remove the nuts and then have to
remove
>> metal twists from around the studs. 25 lbft is the value listed in the
>> manual.
>>
>>
>>
>> What is going wrong? My guess is that the "grade 5" nuts really aren't
grade
>> 5, but I have no way of telling: the flats don't have any markings. I know
>> these have to be pretty tight given all of the stresses caused by the cam
>> pushing on the rods. Any advice appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>>
>>
>> Clayton
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