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Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems

To: crk@godblessthe.us
Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems
From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 14:48:49 GMT
  Though it is possible to remove R&R pistons and rings with engine in the
car, better work can be done with engine out. R&R of the engine is about four
hours each way if you have a helper and good luck with rusted fastenings.
  Even if it were to turn out that cylinders have no oval or tapered wear and
do not need machine shop attention, with engine out there is opportunity to
clean up the accumulated dirt, paint inaccessible items and do other
maintenance chores.
  If the head is already off, one can lift by the head studs, and you might as
well replace all the studs because of their unknown history.
Bob


---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <crk@godblessthe.us>
To: "'MG List'" <mgs@autox.team.net>, <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] rocker threads causing problems
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 18:45:20 -0700

Allright, this is where I am now. I used a regular wrench and tightened
"good and tight" with just a smidgeon of movement still left. I tried the
click torque wrench, and I could feel more turn available but didn't turn
much more and left things where they were. The reading on the torque wrench
was 25 and that was the lowest number. Someone indicated that the low end
would be pretty inaccurate.

I went driving and continued to see the original problem of billows of blue
smoke upon harder acceleration after strong suction. The conclusion is that
the valve seals weren't the cause of the smoke, which leaves the problem
being caused by the rings!

Next step is work on the rings. At this point, I see two options. 1) remove
the engine and tear it down, send it in to a engine shop, and then rebuild
with whatever new parts necessary, or 2) pop the head and the sump and
remove the pistons, check for broken or damaged rings and proper sizing of
pistons and cylinders and possibly honing cylinders, replace with
proper-sized pistons and rings, etc. Is it even worth the effort of trying
to do the work with the engine still in the car, or should I remove the
engine and go the full route?

Thanks,

Clayton
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