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Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] No Start

To: <MG-MGB@yahoogroups.com>, "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] [MG-MGB] No Start
From: PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 30 May 2015 10:40:48 +0100
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <286821624.1595530.1432927473342.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com>
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Do not overhaul your carbs at this stage, it may be nothing to do with =
them.

The first check should have been to look at the tach the instant this =
started happening, and before you did anything else like turned off, =
dipped the clutch etc.  If the tach has dropped to zero when the =
momentum of the car is still spinning the engine, then you have an =
ignition LT fault.  Additionally if the ignition warning light was on =
you have lost the supply from the ignition switch.

If the tach still registers then it is either HT, fuel, or possibly =
condenser if it has points, so check the spark while cranking with a =
spare plug laying on the block.

What do you mean by 'fuel pump is clicking away'?  If it's clicking all =
the time the ignition is on, and it's an SU, then either the pump is =
faulty or it can't pick up fuel, possibly because the pickup pipe inside =
the tank has corroded through above the fuel level.  The first check for =
that is to remove the fuel delivery pipe from the carb, direct it into a =
container and switch on the ignition.  It should deliver at least one =
Imperial pint per minute and in practice more than double that, in a =
continuous series of pulses with minimal bubbling.

If the idle drops below 600 rpm the ignition warning light does usually =
come back on, although later MGB usually don't drop that low.  It won't =
be the alternator that caused this if there was still enough power to =
crank.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  Ok, need a start on where to look here.... Was out driving the '76B =
(w/'75 engine and Z-S) and was going up a slight hill - car seemed to =
lose power
  and died after going down an exit ramp and stopping at a stop sign =
(car actually shut off when I pushed out clutch approaching the stop). =
Would not
  restart.
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=EF=BB=BF<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff" bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Do not overhaul your carbs at this stage, it may be =
nothing to=20
do with them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The first check should have been to look at the tach =
the=20
instant this started happening, and before you did anything else like =
turned=20
off, dipped the clutch etc.&nbsp; If the tach has dropped to zero when =
the=20
momentum of the car is still spinning the engine, then you have an =
ignition LT=20
fault.&nbsp; Additionally if the ignition warning light was on you have =
lost the=20
supply from the ignition switch.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the tach still registers then it is either HT, =
fuel, or=20
possibly condenser if it has points, so check the spark while cranking =
with a=20
spare plug laying on the block.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>What do you mean by 'fuel pump is clicking =
away'?&nbsp; If=20
it's clicking all the time the ignition is on, and it's an SU, then =
either the=20
pump is faulty or it can't pick up fuel, possibly because the pickup =
pipe inside=20
the tank has corroded through above the fuel level.&nbsp; The first =
check for=20
that is to remove the fuel delivery pipe from the carb, direct it into a =

container and switch on the ignition.&nbsp; It should deliver at least =
one=20
Imperial pint per minute and in practice more than double that, in a =
continuous=20
series of pulses with minimal bubbling.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If the idle drops below 600 rpm the ignition warning =
light=20
does usually come back on, although later MGB usually don't drop that =
low.&nbsp;=20
It won't be the alternator that caused this if there was still enough =
power to=20
crank.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV>Ok, need a start on where to look here.... Was out driving the =
'76B=20
  (w/'75 engine and Z-S) and was going up a slight hill - car seemed to =
lose=20
  power</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"POSITION: relative" id=3Dygrp-mlmsg>
  <DIV style=3D"Z-INDEX: 1" id=3Dygrp-msg>
  <DIV id=3Dygrp-text>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff; FONT-FAMILY: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica =
Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; COLOR: #000; =
FONT-SIZE: 13px">
  <DIV dir=3Dltr id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1432910621327_12584>and died after =
going down an=20
  exit ramp and stopping at a stop sign (car actually shut off when I =
pushed out=20
  clutch approaching the stop). Would not</DIV>
  <DIV dir=3Dltr=20
  =
id=3Dyui_3_16_0_1_1432910621327_12595>restart.</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></D=
IV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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