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Is the brake balance warning coming on? Does it work i.e. have you =
tested it? Have you checked the fluid levels front and rear in the =
brake master? If the fronts aren't working at all and only the rears =
then there is the same fault both side which can only be the master, the =
balance switch, or the pipe between them. If the balance warning test =
switch works but it isn't coming on then it could be the shuttle is =
seized, or the switch is faulty. But that would be in addition to =
whatever is causing the reduced pressure to the front circuit.
Highly unlikely to be the calipers themselves seized at exactly the same =
time, and if only one is seized then it would pull strongly to the other =
side.
Raising each corner in turn and seeing if the brake pedal (sic) stops =
the wheel is a sort of test, but it's not going to take much effort from =
the caliper to stop you spinning it by hand compared to the pressure =
that is exerted when slowing the car. They could still be working, but =
at greatly reduced effectiveness i.e. from gross contamination of =
pads/discs, but again that would have to be on both sides.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
Having trouble stopping. It does stop, but not like it should. Like =
maybe only the rears are working. Is there any way to test that?
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Is the brake balance warning coming on? Does =
it work=20
i.e. have you tested it? Have you checked the fluid levels front =
and rear=20
in the brake master? If the fronts aren't working at all and =
only the=20
rears then there is the same fault both side which can only be the=20
master, the balance switch, or the pipe between them. <FONT =
size=3D2>If=20
the balance warning test switch works but it isn't coming on then it =
could be=20
the shuttle is seized, or the switch is faulty. But that would be =
in=20
addition to whatever is causing the reduced pressure to the front=20
circuit.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Highly unlikely to be the calipers themselves seized =
at=20
exactly the same time, and if only one is seized then it would pull =
strongly to=20
the other side.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Raising each corner in turn and seeing if the brake =
pedal=20
(sic) stops the wheel is a sort of test, but it's not going to take much =
effort=20
from the caliper to stop you spinning it by hand compared to the =
pressure that=20
is exerted when slowing the car. They could still be working, but =
at=20
greatly reduced effectiveness i.e. from gross contamination of =
pads/discs, but=20
again that would have to be on both sides.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
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<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Having trouble stopping. It does stop, but =
not like=20
it should. Like maybe only the rears are working. Is there =
any way=20
to test that?<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
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