>
>So my theory: the bimetallic spring 'fuse' has become old and cranky; this,
>coupled with some resistance thru the switch, has the spring disengaging
>the power just due to the heat from normal current flow - not really a
>short here at all.
>Does this sound right?
>I should be either to
>A) bend the contact toward the spring a little, and make it a little
>harder to move enough to break contact
>B) permanently break contact, and install a buss fuse between the
connections.
>
>Don't want to burn down the old truck, but would rather not butcher an OEM
>switch if there is a simple fix...
Craig
Try cleaning the contacts til they shine. I think you are on the right
track with your theory. Headlights draw plenty of current and if you have
old dirty contacts you might be developing a hot spot right at the contact
that is heating up the bimetal and making it open.
I think you indicated that the new switch worked with no problems so that
should verify that your wiring is ok. The problem must be in the switch.
As a last resort - and I know this is not popular with the pure stockers- I
would ditch the old switch in favor of the new one. I would much prefer to
have an old truck with a repro headlight switch than an old truck that was
burned up.
Good luck!
Bill Bailey
57 Chevy 3100
http://members.tripod.com/~oltruck
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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