Lonnie, if that $66 is making you walk funny, I can help there, hehe. What do
you think is your capacity of your newly made tank?
new mexico jim
50 ½ ton
51 two ton dump
hopefully 54 two ton cab and chassis
"Lonnie L. Dickey" wrote:
> Ok. Don't laugh. I got this idea from an advertisement in a custom
> rod magazine. They wanted $70 (!!) for theirs. I couldn't warrant
> that kind of money but liked the setup. Read on.
>
> I used an old piece of exhaust tubing for the main holding tank.
> This does two things. First it is somewhat slender (2 1/4"). I needed
> to get it in between my V8, fan, and radiator. Second it length gives
> it good fluid capacity. It happened to be thick walled stainless which
> is common today and you might get a piece from the waste at a
> muffler shop. I closed one end, which will be the bottom, by welded
> it closed and then drilled two holes in the 'bottom'. I ran some old fuel
> line (3/8") tubing through one hole almost to the other end, which will
> be the top. I left a bit sticking out the 'bottom'. I threaded the other
> hole and put in a hose fitting (again 3/8").
>
> I use short hose fitting as the receive line from the radiator. The fuel
> tubing acts as an overflow and has a hose routed to dump any
> excess through a hole in the chassis. Look in your porcelain throne.
> In the tank you will see the same overflow idea. When the fluid gets
> deep enough to top the tube it is routed away through pluming.
>
> Add a couple of well placed bolt tabs to match the bolt holes used
> for the radiator or other mounting location. Top it off with a nice
> paint/chrome job and a spring loaded vent cap from you local FLAPS.
>
> There you have it. An overflow tank which is compact. It looks and
> performs like the $70 unit. My actual outlay was $4 for the nice
> chrome cap, some 'waste' parts, and a bit of sweat. It holds the
> overflow water expelled under positive pressure and returns said
> water when the system is cools and produces negative pressure.
>
> Lonnie
> (Cheap and effective but I still have my $66.)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ADvent@thuntek.net>
> To: Hollis Troop12 <hollisbsa@hotmail.com>
> Cc: <dph55@PDQ.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] radiators and cooling
>
> > i have used a antifreeze jug tied on with bailing wire and drilled a hole
> in
> > the cap and slip the little hose in. yes, this is okie rigging but it does
> > work.
> > new mexico jim
> >
> > Hollis Troop12 wrote:
> >
> > > Would it be a good investment to get some kind of overflow tank and
> connect
> > > it to the hose that spits on the driveway? Would this them pull back
> the
> > > fluid it expelled? Or would I need to hook up something like my van has
> > > with a hose connected under the radiator cap? Long term what will these
> > > overflows do the hottop?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Jim House
> > > 46 3104 Chevy
> > >
> > > >From: "dph55@pdq.net" <dph55@PDQ.net>
> > > >Reply-To: "dph55@pdq.net" <dph55@PDQ.net>
> > > >To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > > >Subject: [oletrucks] radiators and cooling
> > > >Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 08:44:26 -0600
> > > >
> > > >One more thing worthy of note is the fact that any radiator in any
> vehicle
> > > >having been driven a while and warmed throughly will when parked and
> shut
> > > >off
> > > >experience a rise in temperature when the flow of coolant is stopped.
> That
> > > >will result in the burping on the driveway in the absence of coolant
> > > >reservoir
> > > >tanks.
> > > >
> > > >Dave Handlely
> > > >51 5 window GMC
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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