Hallo George,
This is about B174UM, delivered in Melbourne in early 1954. My pride and
(usually) joy (except if something big breaks, and that has happened several
anxious times in 700'000km).
I agree with much of your opinion, but I must say I like the automatic
transmission very much. Using a fluid flywheel, not a torque converter, there
is practically no slip once moving with this transmission, engine braking is
like a manual, and it does not markedly change fuel economy. There is so little
slip that I run the cruise control on engine speed no road speed, and the car
does not slow down under load at all. I have overhauled a manual gearbox, and
it was fantastically expensive to repair, especially the replacement cluster
gear. If buying a manual, I would recommend that the gearbox be checked
carefully for synchromesh and noise. Also troublesome with the manaul is the
clutch, and a heavy-duty clutch is essential. Awful clutch shudder is common,
especially on early Mk VI's. Anyhow, the ZY series is almost certainly
automatic.
On the leatherwork, I had mine done in new Conolly leather, and it wasn't too
expensive really. The leather door trims were not worn at all and barely
marked, but I sprayed them with Conolly leather dye (Blue Vaumol colour) anyhow
- look like new. This is also good for scuffed leather. The skin of the hides
is very thin and damageable. DON'T leave a screwdriver in your pocket !!
Headlining: correct: easy. The sunroof HELPS replacement as you start with the
hole and work outwards.
The brake lag can be adjusted, but you are correct: I ran into someone while
reading a map at the traffic lights. When on the move, however, those huge
drums are remarkable. One time I had to stop hard, and a Corolla behind
couldn'd manage at all. Thump. The driver could not believe how quickly I
stopped. The brakes should work as well as a modern car's, and they are good
in not locking due to the negative-feedback arrangement of the shoes. Duo-servo
type used on most cars lock up much more than the Bentley.
I would not say that the car is hard to work on, but then I have been working on
mine since the 60's when it was my fathers. I regularly set the exhaust valves,
and cab do that easily without removing the manifolds. The correct tools are in
the toolkit, including the spanner to stop the tappets rotating. Some jobs are
heavy work, but I have never found very much that is too hard.
Headlights: I have squirrelled away two pairs of original headlamps and two
pairs of fog lamps. In Australia the cars were delivered with twin foggies. I
have replaced them all with standard 7 inch H4 lamps and halogen bulbs. The
original headlamp focus is very narrow and not too bright. Like any mod, they
are all reversible easily. I also have inertia reel seatbelts and reinforced
door pillars. I don't feel safe in any car without belts.
Valves: yes. When overhauling, it is best to machine the exhaust seats out as
they are just the crankcase material, and press in the best you can get. To fit
bronze inlet guides, I bored out the chilled cast steel ones and fitted inserts
of bronze and teflon guide seals. I also used best quality inlet valve seat
inserts, and had the original aluminium bronze exhaust guides replicated. The
cylinder head is very weak on these cars.
Regards,
Richard.
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