>At 06:34 PM 4/30/98 -0500, Susan and John Roper wrote:
>>> I think you are missing the point here ! Studs used in
>>> engine blocks were not intended to be put in with Loc-Tite
>>> or similar products.
><snip>
>>> Regards, Nils
>
>>Again, I beg to differ. The issue under discussion was the use of
>>thread locker in installing replacement studs, after the broken stud had
>>been removed.
><snip>
>John
>>
>Hey John, you don't have to beg!
<snip>
I've been faced with removing a lot of them over the years (especially
>the end ones on exhaust manifolds on Japanese six cylinder cars) <snip>
and in my 30 plus years of experience I have yet to
>have very many studs fall out because they were not glued in ... but I have
>had plenty of broken ones to contend with (and when I am faced with
>removing one, I want it to be as easy as possible)!
>
>Regards, Nils
I'll have to add a comment here; I have had significant problems with studs
coming out, and sometimes wrecking the threads(in the head), on aluminum
heads, esp. on the exhaust studs. Either loctite or anti-seize would help,
probably, with the threads getting damaged, since this appears to happen from
corrosion (the steel threads get rusty, and catch and rip loose chunks of the
aluminum.). I have had the best luck loctiting the studs into the head with
removable (222,242) loctite, and putting anti-seize on the nuts. (I *always*
put loctite on any bolts going into aluminum; and if those bolts are supposed
to be torqued in, I reduce the torque 20-30%)
And I have never had a problem heating up anything I have loctited to break it
loose-run an engine to heat it up, or use a propane torch, or oven, or
soldering iron/gun. I have used all those methods to get loctited bolts out
(snapped off or not).
Take care, Scott M Ryan
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