McVintage@aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks again to everyone who responded - so many of you did, can't thank
> all of you individually.
>
> The exact method I used came from Brian Schlorff - says he's been unsticking
> bolts this way at his business (Power British in Norristown. Pa) for 3-4 yrs
> and hasn't burned the place down yet.
> -heat bolt to dark red (not cherry red - too hot)
> -TURN TORCH OFF
> -spray with PB Blaster - it will SMOKE ALOT, but won't burn unless you got
> the bolt too hot (remember dark red - not cherry red) it will SMOKE PROFUSELY
> keep spraying until it doesn't smoke anymore - this will be a long time
> because it SMOKES A LOT
> -grab now loose nut or bolt with vise grips and remove
>
> Brian says it has to be PB Blaster or it won't work - I don't know why
> unless: a- its because its maybe the only penetrating type product I didn't
> already have or b- it costs about twice as much as all the others
>
> I tried heat alone first (because I read the can and PB Blaster is quite
> flammable) and couldn't budge the nut - heated it up again, cooled it
> with PB Blaster and then it came loose.
>
> If you do this in an attached garage, you should wait till nobody else is
> home because it not only SMOKES A LOT - the odor will permeate and
> linger a while.
> I also reccomend keeping the fire extinguisher handy.
>
> Cheers
> Jack Mc
I have been reading this tread with intrest. I work on heavy equipment
and track work on dozers and such. Some of these units don't have a
split master link and we have to drive the pin out of the chain. what
we do on some is to heat the eye of the chain link to a cherry hot red
then quick quench with water. This process tend to expand the steel
then the quench deeps it in the expanded form. We can drive out pins
that are put in with up to 120 tons of ram force. For what it is worth.
Charlie
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