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Re: walk-in door alignment

To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: walk-in door alignment
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pjthomas@adelphia.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2002 22:53:59 -0400
Scott Hall wrote:

>y'all,
>
>just tried to install a new pre-hung door in the wall between the garage
>and kitchen.  it is a new stanley.  after levelling and gnailing, etc.
>there's a *huge* gap at the top of the striker jamb.  about a half-inch,
>from the top corner running across the the top of the door.  it seems like
>the top hinge plate needs to be screwed in more, moving the door in
>relation to the frame.  in essence, it looks like the door is sagging.
>
>fwiw, all jambs are level/square and I followed the instructions
>word-for-word.  this is the fourth one of these I've done and the others
>all turned out just fine doing it the exact same way.
>
>on the advice of someone whose advice I should know better than to
>solicit, I pried against the top of the frame with a crowbar, trying to
>close the gap.  no dice.
>
>so now I'm doing what I should have done first--asking y'all.  how do I
>fix a (new) sagging door?
>
>thanks.
>
>scott
>
I don't know what the instructions said, but I have hung a few doors.  I 
found it best to take pins out of the hinges and hang the frame on just 
the hinge side.  Shim behind each hinge and replacing the stock screws 
holding the hinges to the frame with screws long enough to go through 
the frame, shims and into the studs.  The studs on either side of the 
jam should be double so use screws long enough to penetrate both studs. 
 You will want to predrill these holes. Use a long level to make sure 
the hing side of the frame is plumb and still straight.  Rehang the 
door, and check that it is plumb.  Next close the door adding thin 
cardboard shims between the door and the top and the door and the stiker 
side of the frame.  With the door shut and shims between the frame and 
studs nail through the frame.  

Make sure you shim between the striker plate and the stud.  Replace the 
stock screws with longer ones, just like the hinges.

If you have access to a thickness planer, rather than uses pairs of 
wedge shims, use solid wood and run through the thickness planer to get 
the right thickness.  The shingle shims are green and may shrink/crack.

Hope this helps.

Peter J. Thomas

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