Inch:
I don't have a well at my house, but I do at our summer cottage, so I can't look
at the switch to verify this. I had this same problem and adjusted it to turn
on
at the required pressure, which according to my switch was 30#. As I recall my
first adventure, I had to turn the adjuster much more than I thought should be
needed, but it eventually made a difference. To test, I just ran the tank down
to the proper pressure. It should shut the pump off at 50#.
There are two adjustments, one for cut in, one for cut out. My memory doesn't
remember enough to describe it to you, but I figured it out by observing.
BTW, after about 6 months or so from the adjustment, it started acting up again.
I replaced with a new one. That carried me through the end of the season, but
then it screwed up yet again soon after Spring startup. I adjusted the new one,
and this time, it required fewer turns to get it dialed in.
Long story short, I figure that as these things wear, usually corrode a bit,
they
get less sensitive and resist adjustment. So, if you don't see a change after a
lot of turns, it could be time for a change. But it's a standard item at Home
Depot. Not all that expensive as I recall.
I think my recurring difficulties might be aggravated by infrequent use. Even
during the summer, it doesn't get a lot of cycles.
Good luck.
Jim
Eric@megageek.com wrote:
> OK, a really quick question...
>
> on the pressure switch for a normal residential water pump switch, is
> there a way to "factory zero" it?
>
> My water pressure drops way to much before the pump kicks back it, and
> while there is a simple adjustment on the switch, I turn it in the
> direction I should, but I don't know if I should turn it a half turn or 2
> turns or what. Nothing seems to make a difference. I was wondering if I
> could set the switch back to the factory preset and start from there.
>
> TIA
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