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[Shop-talk] Identifying taper and threading attachments on a

Subject: [Shop-talk] Identifying taper and threading attachments on a
From: neiljsherry at talktalk.net (Neil Sherry)
Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 11:39:16 +0100
References: <mailman.18.1318960808.11683.shop-talk@autox.team.net><1B9FB4B4C85C43988CF6533A293A8F6D@EnergyKinetics.EKnet><65884CFF6F01482B99CD50CD5947BC69@HP62011><7520E99DCA554F72827DAE1E259B3768@EnergyKinetics.EKnet><B8677E2507954B69BD9E4BD02B86E23F@HP62011> <4E9F8126.3000707@frontier.com> <053901cc8eed$60943220$0501a8c0@randall>
My recollection is that for ANY thred you can re-engage the nut on the 
same point that you were on the dial (eg if you were first engaged on 1 
- you can always re-engage on 1). Certain threads can then be 
re-enagaged with the dial on the odds - so 1 or 3, some on any number, 
some on any mark (ie the halves as well). So, if in doubt, just wait for 
the original point on the dial...

The other thing I have done on light threads is to run the lathe 
backwards - with the tool upside down. This allows you to cut a RH 
thread away from the chuck - which is useful if you are running up close 
to the chuck. Of course it puts all the wrong loads on the machine 
(having a tendancy to lift the slides off the bedways) so not ideal - 
but can be done for small cuts on a small thread.
Neil


On 20/10/2011 06:59, Randall wrote:
> I agree. And even the threading dial is not strictly necessary. It 
> doesn't work anyway, for some small group of threads. (I forget the 
> rules offhand, but ISTR you can't use it for Whitworth threads.) If 
> you don't have one (or it doesn't work for the thread you're doing), 
> you just never open the half nuts and run the motor in reverse to move 
> the carriage back to the right. 

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