shop-talk
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Shop-talk] Water Pressure Relief Valve

To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> FILETIME=[21E02AD0:01CEB339]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water Pressure Relief Valve
From: James Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2013 20:01:59 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <COL126-W39D7264FF597205088DE1CC3B0@phx.gbl> <52337731.8000400@earthlink.net> <CAOtbU9X399mzVzfVm6NrVZcBM+6yWeYF_EYEZSbgi=otHqOY4g@mail.gmail.com> <CA+k5suqXNDRdToC0BPAuiSBDb0=s6TW8C_JK5YfHSwfTDH5PhQ@mail.gmail.com> <CA+k5sur=NFWMo5fMT+MFhzhZhJ77OPaUEihVAdW=LYri9R2uRg@mail.gmail.com>
Thanks, guys.  Sorry for the delay.  I had to get a meat thermometer.  :)

The water was only at about 110 degrees after I had turned it down post
pressure release.  I have turned it up to two notches shy of the maximum and
it is now at 120, which sounds like the minimum, especially since the fixtures
are not temperature limiting.  In answer to other questions that were asked,
it is city water and there is an expansion tank installed.  The tank looks
relatively new and it is one that is still available
(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Therm-X-Trol-ST-12-Expansion-Tank-141N43/20429637
2#.UjeZDGR4ars) but haven't had it checked since we bought the house, so I
have no idea if it properly functioning or how to test it.

I guess the fact that the valve did 'blow' tells me that it isn't working.
Correct?  I know nothing about these and the installation instructions
available on the HD site really don't tell me much.  Is this something I can
test myself?

Thanks again.

Jim


On Sep 14, 2013, at 11:32 AM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> wrote:

> neglected to cc the list...
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 14, 2013 at 10:10 AM, David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 8:18 PM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:
>>
>>> If this is a city water system, wouldn't the expanding water simply back
>>> up
>>> into the supply lines?
>>>
>>>
>> Code -- and good sanitation -- should require an anti-backflow valve on
>> the input.  Water heaters run at less than 140 are potential breeding
>> grounds for all sorts of the things you do not want in your water, like
>> legonella.  It's becoming common for code to require storage water heaters
>> to have a temperature of 140F or higher, and use tempering valves to keep
>> faucets from scalding people.  (If you can, you do want to feed your
>> dishwasher and washing machine with hot hot water.)
>>
>>
>>
>>> If it is a well system, shouldn't there already be an expansion tank that
>>> can deal with it?
>>> If there is an expansion tank, perhaps it has lost its air supply and is
>>> completely full of
>>> water? ( I'm not really familiar with the details of maintaining a well
>>> system...)
>>>
>>>
>> There should be some soft of expansion system, yes.  House may be old
>> enough that the expansion system was the city water supply --no backflow
>> preventor, and one has been installed.  It might also be that there's an
>> anti-hammer riser that was sized (usually too small...) to do it, and it's
>> full of water, not air.
>>
>>
>>
> --
> David Scheidt
> dmscheidt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>