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About 1000 years ago when I was in A&P school I was taught to do style #2.
THe main reason is that someone will eventually need to reach their hand
into a tight spot past the cotter pin you have installed. If you used
style #2, you are much less likely to leave sharp edges that will shred the
hands of the next guy who has to work on this thing. I actually had an
instructor who would look for stuff like this and if she found that you
left a sharp edge somewhere she would deliberately run you hand across it
in a way as to cause just enough damage to get the point across. Not a
lesson I needed to have repeated.
On Tue, Nov 17, 2020 at 11:40 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go look after my mom, and I
> thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:
>
> What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've
> watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage,
> Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In
> It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day'
> hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's 'Type
> 1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle for
> example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best
> way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure
> it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone.
> However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own
> aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightening
> direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when
> applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will
> just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you can't
> see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the
> nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the
> upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower
> half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't
> doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to
> remove if necessary).
>
> FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few
> psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal
> retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
--
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown =
=================================
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">About 1000 years ago when I was in A&P school I was ta=
ught to do style #2.=C2=A0 THe main reason is that someone will eventually =
need to reach their hand into a tight spot past the cotter pin you have ins=
talled.=C2=A0 If you used style #2, you are much less likely to leave sharp=
edges that will shred the hands of the next guy who has to work on this th=
ing.=C2=A0 I actually had an instructor who would look for stuff like this =
and if she found that you left a sharp edge somewhere she would deliberatel=
y run you hand across it in a way as to cause just enough damage to get the=
point across.=C2=A0 Not a lesson I needed to have repeated.<br></div><br><=
div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Nov=
17, 2020 at 11:40 AM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.ne=
t">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_=
quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,=
204);padding-left:1ex">Got some 'quiet time' before I have to go lo=
ok after my mom, and I <br>
thought I'd pose an arcane question to the List:<br>
<br>
What do y'all consider the proper way to use a cotter key/pin? I've=
<br>
watched the pros on TV--Edd China, Ant Anstead, Goblin Garage, <br>
Fantomworks, etc. and the 'Chop it/Channel It/Drop a Crate Engine In <b=
r>
It/Bag It/Put Huge Dubs and a Gaudy Paint Job On It and Call It a Day' =
<br>
hotrod builders, and they all do it a bit different. Usually, it's '=
;Type <br>
1'--see terrible hand-drawn 'art' attached (using a stub axle f=
or <br>
example)--but I gave it a lot of thought and wondered 'Is that the best=
<br>
way?' Thinking it through, yes, any way you put a cotter in and secure =
<br>
it will do the job; i.e. keep the nut from coming completely undone. <br>
However, when safety-wiring--a skill I sorta learned maintaining my own <br=
>
aircraft--you're supposed to always wire so as to pull in the tightenin=
g <br>
direction, to resist any turning at all of the nut/bolt. So, when <br>
applicable--e.g. on castellated nuts--I torque until the cotter will <br>
just fit in the hole (drawing# 2), situated 'sideways'--where you c=
an't <br>
see the eye of the cotter from the side--snug against the side of the <br>
nut's slot so as to resist the nut turning at all. Then, I bend the <br=
>
upper half of the cotter back over the nut/spindle, and snip the lower <br>
half at the edge of the nut, figuring anything longer than that isn't <=
br>
doing anything (plus it just looks neater IMO, and may be easier to <br>
remove if necessary).<br>
<br>
FWIW, my late father, who was an auto shop teacher and had a few <br>
psychology classes under his belt said I was 'stuck at the anal <br>
retentive stage' of child development; I (think) he was kidding.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@aut=
ox.team.net</a><br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk"; rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">htt=
p://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
alk/jdinnis@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><br>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_signature">=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people with =
style when you=C2=A0=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Bro=
wn=C2=A0 =3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</div>
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive
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