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Re: batteries, washer bottles, and valences (long reply and

To: "Ryan Smith" <shmitty99@hotmail.com>, spitfires@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: batteries, washer bottles, and valences (long reply and
From: Nathan Coraor <ncoraor@csrlink.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 22:30:07 -0400
>1) Took out my battery tonight to investigate my battery box damage.  
>The thing is pretty rusty, and rusted through on the corner closest to 
>the engine.  I know you can buy boxes to go in there and I will, but 
>before I install it how should I treat the existing metal?  I don't want 
>to leave it rusting away there.  Unless I don't understand rust, it will 
>keep on going unless treated, right?  Someone told me to make a box out 
>of fiberglass but I would think you would need a rust free surface to 
>start with.

Actually, I've done some rust treatment recently (what I wonderful car I
own) and here's what we (Dad and I) do:

1. Sand. Get off the flaky stuff that isn't actually real metal.  I used a
paint scraper thingy (the real name suddenly escapes me even though I hear
it frequently) and just worked my way around the car making little piles of
rust gather on the garage floor.
2. Rust treat. I picked up some rust-buster stuff at Wal-Mart.  You can
find this type of stuff anywhere, really.  It's just a little bottle of
rust treatment that claims it prevents further spreading of rust.  Apply
this to all rusty areas.
3. Bondo!!!! If you are not associated with Bondo you soon will be. From
filling holes in your car to making a nice crunchy after dinner snack, this
stuff is an essential tool for the non-rebuilding British car owner.  Bondo
is actually the brand name but if you ask the Wal-Mart guy he'll send you
in the right direction.  Use this to fill any holes that you might have.
4. Sand again. The Bondo application is usually a little lumpy and sticks
out past the metal in an unsightly bulge.  Just take some sandpaper to it
to make it mostly even.  I find it much easier to use a power drill with a
sanding disc attached than doing it by hand for this part.
5. Primer.  I think we here use Rustoleum primer.  It's sort of specially
designed to stop rust.  Spray on all infected areas that have been already
treated with the rust-buster.  Gray is always a fashionable choice.  The
cars in our family have been known to drive for months with gray spots all
over them because we never get around to painting over it.

Step 6 is seperate because it only applies when you want to paint over your
rust (which we only do if it's on a visible part of the car... not under
the hood).

6. Paint.  We get our custom paint from NAPA in a nifty little spray can.
Hint from experience: move fast or else you end up with paint on your
bumper (whoops, did I do that? Good thing dad doesn't care about the car
anyways).

Ouch, I think I drank too much caffiene this morning... or maybe someone
spiked my Wheaties.

--Nate "I just really felt like typing" Coraor


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