It's simply a matter of the cut-in point.
The Delco (GM) circuit design has a much lower 'drop-out'
point than the old Lucas design. Once you rev it and it breaks into
regulation, the engine has to drop to a much much lower
rev to get the GM unit to fall out.
How many of you know which major car manufactures are
still using Lucas today? (HINT- there are 6 of them internationally!)
Paul Tegler firstname.lastname@example.org http://www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graziano, Michael" <email@example.com>
To: "'Joe Curry'" <firstname.lastname@example.org>; "Laura Gharazeddine" <Laura.G@141.com>
Cc: "Robert Gunther" <email@example.com>; "John Hobson"
<firstname.lastname@example.org>; "Spitfires mailing list" <email@example.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 2:20 PM
Subject: RE: warning light and alternator
Something I noticed with my Midget. When I had the LUCAS alternator, the
ignition light came on when I turned the key, but went off when the engine
started (or alternator started charging).
Once I converted to the GM alternator, the ignition light now remains
permanently off. It works, no question. I jumped the lead to the bulb in
the engine bay (at the harness that plugs into the alternator) and it lit no
problem. My alternator is charging at 14V.
Anyone else see similar side effects to the conversion?
PS: I bought a surplus actron (sunpro) engine analyzer direct from Actron
9_29620 for $15 a few months ago. Works great. Autozone sells the same
EXACT model for $75.
A compact digital multimeter with many test functions including Tach, Dwell,
Volts, Ohms and Diode Check. This meter features 10 megohm input impedance
required for computer-controlled cars.
Easy to read digital liquid crystal (LCD) display
High impact ABS housing
Detachable heat resistant, color coded 48" leads with booted alligator clips
Automatic reverse polarity indication
Overload protection on all ranges
Automatic zero adjust on all functions
Nice people to deal with, too. Extra nice, actually. I was very happy to
deal with them. As usual, no interest here, financial or otherwise. Just
a happy customer.
From: Joe Curry [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 1:15 PM
To: Laura Gharazeddine
Cc: Robert Gunther; John Hobson; Spitfires mailing list
Subject: Re: warning light and alternator
Your mechanic was right as far as he went. That symptom could also point to
several other things including a burned out bulb and a
loose or broken wire.
Basically, anything in that whole circuit that opens up the flow of
electricity will cause the light to stay off at all times.
Laura Gharazeddine wrote:
> > Run down to "Radio Shack" and buy a cheap voltmeter, VOM or DVM.
> > They can be purchased for about 10 bucks.
> Good idea!
> Voltage s/b around 12 volts.
> > without the engine running, and 13 volts with the engine charging.
> > If your light is not flickering and is off, then you most likely fixed
> > problem.
> Ummm...I hate to break this to you all, watching for the red ign/alt light
to come on, but...the last time my altenator went out, I was coming back
from Ventura and by the time I was half way home, I noticed that my
headlights were dimming and I didn't have any turnsignals-but the red ign
light never came on. Car died 25miles from home, AAA came out and the guy
was really nice, trying to trouble shoot the car. It was then that I noticed
that the ign light didn't light up at all when I turned the key. Got home
(with my last AAA free call) and put the battery on the charger. Noticed
again after charging that the light didn't go on when I turned the key-but
at least I had enough charge to run the car in daylight.
> According to my mechanic, that the ign light didn't come on at all was a
symptom of a bad altenator. (This one lasted a WHOLE week!) When we got the
replacement altenator on, guess what? The red light came on when I turned
the key-as it's supposed to.
> Nigel's getting a voltmeter from Radio Shack for Christmas!
> Laura G.
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