Let me just preface this by saying that
I'm still having a studder at 3000 rpm (adjusted and
re-adjusted carbs, changed needles, changed points,
wires, rotor, cap, plugs etc.) My timing light is
toast (crappy JC whitney junk) though I did check
static timing. 10deg btdc. Yesterday and today I drove
the car (~40 miles) and had the nice light brown
deposits on the plugs.
I spoke to a mechanic about a month ago and he said it
sounded like ignition issue. He asked me if the 40k
volt coil was on a resitive element and I told him no.
I removed it and ran a new 14awg copper wire so that
it's getting full 12volts to the Lucas Sport coil.
That's why I was asking about gaps. Because gapping
doesn't make a lot of sense in my head. (In digital
telecom if it makes contact you get a signal, if it
doesn't then you get no signal.)
To save on bandwidth let me just summerize what I
changed and what the car did. The first measurements
are what the car was at at the tune-up I did about a
week ago. I remeasured everything to make sure I
didn't mess something out, so I'm sure that all of the
plugs were .025" and the gap .015-.016" (measured with
a blade gap tool)
Changed Changed
Plug gap Points Gap Results
.025" .016" Idles at 800-900rpm
.035" .014" Idle dropped to 500 rpm!
.025" .014" same as last
.025" .017" Idle increases to 800rpm
.025" .022" Idle increases to 1000rpm
At the .014" points gap the studdering and popping at
3000 rpm was even worse than before. At the .017"
points gap, I got a pedal flutter, but it was better.
At the .022" i get a vibration through the accelerator
pedal, but it feels like I can run at or around 3000
rpms all day without it studdering and dying.
Power increased also with the increase in points gap,
BUT at the .022" (which increased idle greatly), I now
I get a response as though the car is running lean
(when you let off the pedal with a load on the engine
you get a sputter and a pop).
Okay. So someone want to explain how my car runs
BETTER at an obscenely large points gap?
-Terry
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