James,
Yeah, go for the overdrive option. After all, you've now got a spare Spit
engine you can re-build in preparation for the one you've got fitted going
pop, and you are now an expert at the swapping operation!!
You will need an overdrive unit. These are pretty robust, so you may get
away with buying a second-hand unit without it being re-conditioned -
Rimmers re-con units are close to #300, and that's before you deal with
issues of not having an exchange unit for them. Make sure the unit has the
solonoid, adaptor plate to gearbox (you'll need gaskets for either side of
this adaptor plate), and speedo angle drive with it.
You do not need to replace the entire gearbox, I think it's only the
mainshaft that is different, although you'll have to take the 'box apart to
fit it, so it may just be easier to replace the whole thing if you can get a
cheap s/h unit from somewhere.
You will need the shorter propshaft.
You may need a different gearbox-to-chassis mount - not totally sure about
this, does anyone else have any info?
You will need a replacement gearlever, with the O/D switch in the top. You
can get the actual knob and switch new, but I'm not sure about the gearlever
itself. Alternatively you could just fit a toggle switch to the dashboard
for the O/D - my MG BGT had a dash-mounted switch, and I actually preferred
that to Daffy's gearknob-mounted switch, as I could operate it just be
stretching my little finger, without removing my hand from the wheel.
You will need the gearlever extension system used with the O/D - check out
your Rimmers catalogue for all the details. Obviously if you track down a
used gearbox and O/D assembly then this should all be with it.
You will need the wiring. This is pretty simple - it is just a mini-harness
that connects to the main harness in place of the wire that should currently
go to the reversing light switch. This should simply unplug. The
mini-harness connects to the reversing light switch, the O/D inhibitor
switch (switch screwed into the gear lever base that prevents the O/D
operating except in 3rd and 4th gears), the extension wires that run up the
gearlever to the switch in the gearknob, and the solonoid. My DPO, when he
converted Daffy, opted not to spend the #2.50 or so that this costs and made
it up himself - this caused constant kangarooing as the O/D switched in and
out until I discovered his dodgy wiring and replaced it!
I think that's about it. Once you've got all the bits, it should be a
pretty straightforward bolt-in procedure, unless you opt to re-build your
existing gearbox with the replacement mainshaft, which might take a little
longer...
It's worth it though - with O/D you get over 22mph/1000rpm, instead of the
18 or so without, so 70mph means 3,100rpm instead of 3,800rpm, which is
definitely better for motorway cruising.
Good luck, I hope you get this sorted!
Richard & Daffy
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