Hmph, sent this to the wrong list. Sorry James, hope its not too late.
If my head wasn't screwed on etc...
From: Nick Moseley [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: August 23, 2005 9:42 PM
To: Spit-Enthusiast list
Subject: RE: gear box removal/clutch service
I don't know if you've done this before, so please excuse if these are too
basic. I'm by no means an expert, but had the pleasure of being guided by
one when replacing clutch on a 1500 several years ago.
Ahead of time arrange to have:
-a 3 piece clutch kit, there's no sense in leaving used parts in there
unless you _like_ this kind of job and want to do it again.
-a clutch alignment tool handy. I just managed to do an engine swap and
getting the engine and gearbox to come together was a major time consumer.
Joe Curry recommended having an input shaft to do this, and it made a huge
difference. (Thanks Joe!)
-a new main rear seal (at least on a 1500) and some Permatex or whoever
gasket maker to put between the seal housing and the oil pan. Again, might
as well do this while you have it opened up. The actual seal replacement
takes very little time. (Subsequent suggestion by another lister to also
replace pilot bushing).
-gone to a hardware store or whatever and get two loooong bolts like the top
two where the gearbox is secured to the engine. Cut the heads off. (Or buy
two looong studs). By getting the trans onto these bolts (now studs) you'll
find it a lot easier to make the fine adjustments necessary to get the box
and engine to mesh.
-4 strong jack stands or whatever is necessary to get and hold the car in
the air securely.
-the right tools. The 1500 uses Allen/hex head bolts to secure the pressure
plate to the flywheel. Not having them to hand when needed is a drag. (Don't
know about the Mk 3). Also a torque wrench may be useful (although I didn't
-you can save yourself some time (at least with the seats in a 1500) by
removing only the seat bottom rather than the whole thing.
-after disconnecting rad hoses and engine mounts as needed, lift up the rear
of the engine and set it onto a short 2 X 4 piece of wood straddling the
chassis. Note the angle when removing the box, and try to replicate it when
re-installing. Its easier to pull up and out together, rather than out and
Hope this helps, again, sorry if its too basic.
James Catalan wrote Sent: August 23, 2005 5:59 PM
Any words of advice, tips, tricks, etc etc in the removal of the gear box?