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Re: Removing Crank Pulley Bolt and New Question!

To: Chuck Ciaffone <chuckc@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Removing Crank Pulley Bolt and New Question!
From: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 1997 20:18:56 -0500
Cc: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: Positive Earth Drivers Club
References: <346A2375.7B4A@ibm.net>
Reply-to: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Chuck Ciaffone wrote:

> 
> On another note, what should I replace now that I have
> it this far apart. I intend to do crank and big-end bearings,
> locktabs, piston rings, and assemble with new gaskets.  What
> about rod bolts, main bearing bolts, and head studs? Should
> I replace them just cause I have it apart? Anything else?

New rod and main bolts is recommended but not absolutly necessary.
Cheap insurance though. At the very least, replace the nyloc nuts with
new ones. (or lock tabs depending on year)
Head studs again only if stretched (how does one tell if they are
stretched?) I replace studs if rusty or boogered up. Definatly replace
all bolts and studs if you are going the preformace route.

A new waterpump is a good idea too. 
Don't buy that little accordian by-pass hose. It does not last. Just use
a piece of 1/2" heater hose, it will outlast the waterpump.

Good luck
> 
> chuck
> --
> =====================================================
> 
> chuck ciaffone chuckc@ibm.net

-- 
Frank Clarici
Too many Sprites
http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut

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