Hi Leo, what you can do is to purchase new beading complete with flange form VB
or Moss. The first step is to place the new beading in the vise and cut the
flange off using a 32 tpi hacksaw. When you have it removed clean any burs etc.
off with a file. With acetone or something similar clean off any residue. Using
soft solder and a flux suitable for steel, tin the whole underside.
The next step is to remove the old beading with a sharp chisel. Once removed
clean off as much rust as possible.(Try using a hacksaw blade to clean the
flange area) Clean all the paint or body filler that may be in close proximity.
Using an Oxy- Acetylene torch (propane isn't hot enough) braze the joint
between the wing and main bonnet section. (Caution: If the heat becomes too
wide spread you may warp some sheet metal). Then file it smooth removing all
undulations. Clean the surface with acetone to remove any oil or grease then
tin it as you did the new beading.
The final step is to soft solder the new beading in place.(Propane may be OK
for this). Starting at one end, place the new beading in place and apply heat
carefully until the solder starts to melt. Feed in a little solder. Using a
piece of wood or something similar hold the beading in place until the solder
sets. Now very carefully (not too much heat) work you way down a piece at a
time until you have it all soldered in place.
This is not a simple task but if you can get help from a friend or spouse it is
doable.
Hope this helps.
Dave Formstone
1960 Bugeye.
Ps: please let me know how you make out and what procedure you use.
Also if I have not explained things well enough please E mail me.
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From: Leo Speichinger[SMTP:ldsp@flash.net]
Sent: January 4, 1998 18:20 PM
To: Spridget List
Subject: Bugeye bonnet repair
Does anyone have any ideas or opinions on the best way to change or
repair the fender beading without drilling out the factory spot welds &
associated hassles??
I have a bonnet that is in excellent shape except for some rust pitting
& flattening on the factory beading that after media blasting will be
too obvious and I really do not want to use any filler on the beading
due to fear of it popping off later.
I have not been able to come up with a good way of doing the repairs
other than separating the fenders and trying to realign them after
replacing the beading. Also in the interest of the previous posting
about paint formulas I had a PPG dealer set down and formulate PPG / DCC
acrylic urethane in Iris Blue to match the original color that was under
my license plate light. He weighed every part as he mixed so as to
retain the formula. A spray out matched perfectly. If anyone needs it
let me know.
Thanks
Leo
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