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Re: half shaft oil seal

To: tobisj@aud.alcatel.com (Shawn J. Tobin), spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: half shaft oil seal
From: "Editors, Molecular Vision" <jboatri@emory.edu>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 15:57:10 -0400
In-reply-to: <9801261733.AA03300@kruse1.aud.alcatel.com>
Reply-to: "Editors, Molecular Vision" <jboatri@emory.edu>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
>I have the same problem/situation with my '69 wire-wheel car and cannot
>find anywhere a depiction of the oil seal for this model.  All I found were
>two large o-rings and something rubber and disintegrated in the center of the
>axle hub.  The paper gasket was missing.  Do I need a oil seal or will the
>o-rings seal it altogether?

Shawn,

For a wire wheel car, when you take the brake drum off, you're looking at
the splined hub extension. Remove the one screw holding it on, pull the
axle out, and you'll see the wheel side face of the hub. Probably stuck to
this is a rubber O-ring and a paper gasket. The hub, the part left on the
car after the axle is pulled out, houses the oil seal and the bearing. The
hub retaining nut should be staring you in the face when you pull the axle
out. Just behind it is a washer, just behind the washer is the bearing
(you'll see the balls and the outer race, which is of larger diameter than
the washer. Behind the bearing, and probably not visisble, is the oil seal.
This whole assembly is shown in the Haynes and workshop manuals and the
Moss catalog.

The retaining washer and nut probably look beat up. The washer should have
a bit of it turned down towards you. This folded down tab is there to keep
the nut from turning. It can do this becasue the washer has a nub or key
that fits in the keyway of the axle. So, bend the washer tab back using a
dull chisel or somesuch. Remove the retaining nut. Most people don't have a
big enough socket, so they use the chisel on the nut. Hence it's probable
appearance in your car. The nut on the right (passenger side) is regular
right-hand thread. The nut on the left is left threaded!! Get the nut off,
pry the washer off, remembering that the side opposite the key should be
pried out first. Now the hub can be pulled.

I needed a puller to get the hub off the car. Once off, you can press out
the bearing using the puller reversed. Make sure that the bearing does not
show signs of being spun. It should be smooth, without scratches running
around the outer face of the outer race. If it has been spun, you may need
a new hub since the bearing seat may be too big now for a tight fit.

The oil seal should be plainly visible now. It is like two concentric
circles connected by a rubber face. The inner one is just a rubber lip, the
outer one is a metal ring covered in rubber. In the trough between the
inner and outer circles is a circular metal spring that squeezes the inner
circle around the axle. Getting the seal out is tough. I am in the process
of destroying one now by carefully prying it out with a screwdriver.

I do not have _two_ O-rings, just the one that sits between the hub and the
hub extension. Where are your two rings located? I'm guessing that the
"something rubber and disintegrated in the center of the axle hub" is
what's left of your oil seal. The bearing is lubricated by oil from the
differential traveling down the axle and into the hub. The oil seal keeps
oil from traveling back towards the differntial on the outside of the axle.
If it got past this seal, it would sling out onto the brakes shoes. The
O-ring keeps oil from slinging out of the hub into the space occupied by
the paper filter (ie, where the face of the extension and the hub meet). If
the O-ring is bad, oil will eventually saturate the paper gasket and then
get onto the brake shoes. If your brake drum or shoes are contaminated with
oil, I suggest replacing the O-ring, the oil seal, and the paper gasket.
Evidence of oil on the brakes is that the drum might have some oil in it
(mine had a lot) or the shoes might have a coating of flaky, sooting stuff,
which is what's left of gear oil after you get it real hot by squeezing it
between the shoes and drum over several thousand miles!

I have exactly ONE axle hub reconditioning under my belt, so take all this
with a large grain of salt, though I think it's fairly accurate. Actually,
I'm only halfway there as my bearing was spun in the distant past and
apparently "fixed" by addition of epoxy to the hub and outer race face. The
hub race seat also has little dots of something all over it, proabably more
epoxy, that was carefully dabbed on to fill the space created by a spinning
bearing. Has anyone ever heard of this being done? It worked for 7 years on
this car, and I'm not sure it won't work for another 7. OTOH, I have a
complete rear end under the house, so I'll probably just pull a hub off of
it tonight. FUN.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

____________________________________________________
Jeff Boatright        Sprite MkIII           __o_\__
http://userwww.service.emory.edu/~jboatri/index.html



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