Adam,
I agree with Ulix that your rotors may be out of round or loose.
I had a bad wheel bearing that caused my hub(and rotor) wiggle.
The motion would separate my brake pads. It would take 3 or four quick pumps
then I'd have a good solid peddle.
replaced the front bearings and the breaks were perfect.
good luck,
Dave
'67 Midget
-----Original Message-----
From: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
To: Adam Culp <aculp@mailhost.tcs.tulane.edu>
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, January 23, 1999 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: New
>Adam,
>it could be something mechanical rather than hydraulic.
>Are your rear brakes adjusted up snugly?
>Are your front disks out of round?
>
>Ulix
>
>
>On Sat, 23 Jan 1999, Adam Culp wrote:
>
>> Hello List-
>> My name is Adam and am new to the list. I own a crome bumper '74
>> Midget (yes another round fendered 1275 cc), which at the time is
>> hibernating in California while I attend school in New Orleans. He has
>> been my baby for 5 years now, and have been slowly resotring him little
>> by little over the years, while still operating him. Except when he was
>> completely stripped for about a year while he got a brand new blue base
>> coat/clear coat. Now he looks great, but still has a few quirks.
>> One big problem is that when I took off the dash for painting, I was
>> stupid and did not label any of the wires. Now when I hit the brakes,
>> the right rear turn signal goes on and the left brake goes on. I am
>> sure y'all are fimmiliar with the elctrical quirks. I have tried
>> looking at the wiring diagram, but this is not helping. Does anyone out
>> there know or have something that says which wires goe where?
>> The other thing that is giving me large problems, and they have the
>> entire time of ownership, are the brakes. When other people feel the
>> brakes, they think they don't work, but they do you just have to know to
>> pump them about 5-6 times beofer any kind of poressure is felt. FOr
>> this problem I have rebuilt the rear wheel cylinder, then replaced them,
>> then replaced the master cylinder, then checked all the lines, and
>> replaced the rubber lines, and still the problem is there. There are no
>> vissible leaks and yet they are still very soft. When I bleed the
>> brakes, they come out clear, NO BUBBLES AT ALL! My newest theory is
>> that maybe the rebuilt master cylinder I bought is faulty, and that when
>> the brakes are depressed the rubber gaskets give and fluid passses by.
>> But, I took the rebuilt cylinder apart, and every thing looked
>> adequate. I am waiting untill I go back to CA in May, before I plop
>> down the $200 or so for a new master cylinder. Does anybody know what
>> else could be going on here? The brake warning light does not work when
>> I depress it, but it did, before the wiring was tampered with by me.
>> And the warning switch is not leaking, at least not vissibly. But I
>> read somewhere that maybe the seals on the inside of it have gone bad.
>> Is this a possibility and is it worth a R&R?
>> Any insight on either matter is appreciated and I looking forward to
>> being part of the list.
>>
>> ADAM
>> '74 Midget
>>
>
> Ulix __/__,__ ___/__|\__
>..............................................(_o____o_)....<_O_____O_/...
> '67 Sprite '74 X1/9
>
>
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