On 02/08/99 08:22:10 you wrote:
>
>Jay,
>
>I'm part way through the process and have learned some experience that I
>would like to pass along. I would have definitely preferred sandblasting
>because of the trouble with chemical dipping, but due to the extent of the
>rot in the interior of the rails I decided sandblasted was not the best
>choice. If you know major structural elements require replacement due to
>rot, and are concerned about stopping internal rot, I would consider acid
>dipping for a healey. The actual process of my vendor consisted of
>alternating alkali and acid baths several times, pressure blasting, oven
>baking, phosphate coating, followed by electrostatically applied self
>etching primer. The process was extremely effective at removing paint,
>rust, bondo, etc. However, like you mentioned all interior voids must be
>flushed and drained, otherwise fluid will be left trapped ineffective, will
>leach out, accelerate corrosion, etc. In my case, after the first
>treatment, I cut out all the structure which was going to be replaced
>during the restoration including inner sills, front crossmember, and the
>rear outriggers and discovered the interior was not properly treated and
>flushed as I expected. With better access to all interior voids from the
>removal of the rotted structure and improved access, I'll repeat the
>process.
>
>Regards.
>
>Clay Platt
>1954 BN1
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>TYPE79@ix.netcom.com on 02/06/99 12:03:01 PM
>
>Please respond to TYPE79@ix.netcom.com
>
>To: spridgets@autox.team.net, racer45@bellsouth.net,
> Healeys@autox.team.net
>cc: (bcc: Clay Platt/BII)
>Subject: Re: Chemical Stripping; was Midget fender bolts
>
>
>
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>On 02/05/99 00:41:36 you wrote:
>I am going to strip the shell down and get it dipped, then painted...
>>Mark Snowdon
>>Greensboro NC
>
>Mark,
>I would recommend that you do some research before dipping your car. Years
>ago, owners and restorers reported problems with the process.
>
>Since the chemical invades literally every cavity and seam, those chemicals
>must be neutralized and purged 100% before anything else is done, i.e.
>paint and bodywork.
>
>The chassis rails for example will be completly filled with the chemical
>and will need to be drained. Also, if your tub is severely rotted, you may
>be disappointed with how little of it comes out of the tank.
>
>Despite many people's best efforts, the neutraliziing, cleaning and purging
>wasn't always effective and the paint on some cars lifted in sheets after
>many years.
>
>The process may be different today. I haven't heard of, nor do I know of
>anyone who has used the process in recent years, so my comments could be
>out-of-date.
>
>For the last ground-up that I did, we carefully sandblasted the "interior",
>the bottom and the engine bay of the tub, and then chemcally stripped the
>exterior of the body panels by hand. Messy for sure, but the result was
>worth it.
>
>Just my thoughts. Hope it is of help. Does anyone else have any experience
>or knowledge on today's chemical dipping processes?
>
>Jay Fishbein, CT
>AN-5
>HAN-6
>Innocenti-S
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Clay,
Thanks for the reply. I forwarded this to both the Healey and Spridget Lists,
as well, for others to benefit from your experience.
Jay Fishbein
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