I just put the engine and transmission back in my Midget last weekend, I
wrapped a chain around the alternator bracket and attached another chain to
the bolt securing the transmission to the engine on the opposite side of the
engine from the alternator. I used a engine hoist and equalizer. I have
used this method a couple times with great success. The engine and
transmission combination if well balanced and with the equalizer, you can
adjust the angle of the engine going into the engine compartment. Good
luck.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spruck <bspruck@mindspring.com>
To: Jason Urban <jurban@p3.net>; spridgets@autox.team.net
<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: Engine Pulling
>At 12:32 PM 2/25/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>Hi All!
>>
>>Probably gonna be pulling the engine this weekend to do some more work and
>>cleanup a few leaks. When the engine was last pulled, we simply ran chain
>>around the engine and connected the chain to a hoist. Putting it back in,
>>we very carefully ran chain around the engine since it was just painted.
>>Now that I'm pulling it again, I'd like to find a better way.
>>
>>Most of the advice is to tie the chain to the head/rocker studs(no chain
>>knots, but using an metal angle). Can these studs take the weight??
Since
>>I have an LCB header, this comes off before I pull the engine, so I don't
>>have a manifold to hook onto, either.
>>
>>Suggestions??
>>
>>Jason.
>>
>>
>>| Jason Urban - APOGEE LABS 215-699-2060 |
>>| CA Studio www.dynanet.com/~crackerarts |
>>| '95 Z/28 6spd '65&'67 Austin-Healey Sprites |
>>
>>
>Jason:
>Hope you had success this weekend with your engine.I can give you some
>advice about pulling/installing the engine on my '67 Vintage Race Midget.
>Last winter I installed the ARP head studs along with many other
>improvements to the race engine. As my buddy and I were putting the engine
>back in disaster struck. The studs broke where we had attached the chains
>with angle iron brackets. The engine fell into the engine compartment of
>the car, the tail shaft hitting the concrete floor ruining the oil seal,
>while the oil pan hit the sheetmetal between the fenders and ahead of where
>the radiator mounts. We were using a come-along chained to a beam in the
>garage ceiling with chains to the two angle brackets bolted to the two
>strenghened(?) studs. We had done engines this way for years with no
problems.
>
>Our theory for this accident is that we got the engine at too high an angle
>so we could get the combined engine and transmission into the car. The
>studs have great tensile strength but poor shear strength. Mini Mania
>replaced the ARP studs without a problem . I had to recheck and replace
>the rear seal, straighten and paint the sheetmetal, and check the oil pan
>and front damper.
>Fortunately, neither of us or our two watchers was hurt, but it was close.
>
>I also fabricated a new mpounting system. I use the generator mounting
>bracket in its regular place on the right side of the engine and attach one
>chain to it. On the other side, I cut an 18" piece of 2" angle iron,
>drilled holes in it to match the manifold studs, and welded two brackets to
>it. One is right across from the generator bracket and is used when pulling
>the engine alone so it is balanced. The other is positioned such that the
>engine and trans are balanced when pulling them together.
>
>Since then, the safety nut that I am, I bought an engine hoist from Sam's
>Club for $199 and an equalizer from Northern Hydraulics for $34. Some guys
>rent the hoist, but since I have two Midgets and the race car engine goes
>in and out almost every year, an dI have lots of friends with LBC's, I felt
>the investment in the right tools was a good idea. I can now do the entire
>job single handed and much more safely.
>
>This may seem like a lot of work and expense, but once you drop one, you
>really get to be concerned of the consequences.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Bob Spruck
>Sharpsburg, GA
>
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