On Tue, 23 Mar 1999 00:11:41 -0500 Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
writes:
>Mike Maclean wrote:
>>
>> This might be a simple question to some, but what is the proper
>> technique to torque and re-torque the head on my rebuilt 948? What
>> increments do you torque it down with the first time? And when you
>> re-torque in the first 500 miles, do you loosen them first? Or just
>> check if their still torqued correctly? I was just going to torque
>it
>> down in 10 pound
>> increments the first time. Pretty basic stuff, but all Haynes says
>is
>> to retorque after the first 500 miles.
>> Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
>
>Mike
>
>Start in the middle and work outwards. (there is a picture in the book
>for exact sequence but it is not THAT critticle)
>10lb increments is fine. I do it twice, 25 then 45 all around.
>After 500 miles, start in the middle and tighten to 42 (or what ever a
>948 should be) then readjust your valves. It is a good idea too keep
>the
>valves a bit loose during that first 500 miles, set them at .013 or
>.014
>cold (stock cam) and reset them at .012 after the retorque. (this is
>what I do on the advise of an old race car builder. I do not know if
>it
>is good or bad, I never had any troubles)
>--
>Frank Clarici
>Toms River, NJ
>Bugeye Sprite
>67 Sprite
>59 A40
>http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut/
All this is really great advice, Works for me all the time. The only
addition to it would be this: On the retorque add this item--Back off
about 1/4 to 1/3 turn before retorquing each nut on the head. Eliminates
a false torque reading doing it this way.
Paul
PAsgeirsson@juno.com
|