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RE: bleedin' brakes

To: "Tom Zuchowski" <tzuchow@ibm.net>, "Spridgets List" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: bleedin' brakes
From: "Greg Gowins" <cartman@dnai.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 20:30:25 -0700
Importance: Normal
In-reply-to: <00b501bef33a$42c65720$692c6420@default>
Reply-to: "Greg Gowins" <cartman@dnai.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
I'm not sure what sizes you need, however, if you let the folks there at
Speed Bleeder know what year your car is, they will look it up in their
reference book and ship you the right ones.  If they happen to send you the
wrong size, it's not a big deal to exchange them for the right ones.  Also
I'm pretty sure they'll have the one for the clutch slave cylinder.  Hope
this helps!

Greg Gowins
'69 Sprite
Dublin CA

-----Original Message-----
From:   Tom Zuchowski [mailto:tzuchow@ibm.net]
Sent:   Monday, August 30, 1999 3:52 PM
To:     Greg Gowins; Spridgets List; Robert Duquette
Subject:        Re: bleedin' brakes

What sizes should I order? I have disk/drum brakes from a '67 and a 1275
ribcase (I REALLY want one on the clutch!!!)

Tom Zuchowski
'61 Bugeye
Clemmons, NC

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Gowins <cartman@dnai.com>
To: Spridgets List <spridgets@autox.team.net>; Robert Duquette
<RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca>
Date: Sunday, August 29, 1999 11:09 PM
Subject: RE: bleedin' brakes


>Robert,
>
>I too hate bleeding brakes.  I found a company that makes a nifty little
>device called SpeedBleeder.  They make a bleeder screw replacement that
lets
>NO air back in during the bleeding process.  You don't need another person,
>or any special tools.It costs around $8 for each wheel.  Once I put a set
of
>these on my Sprite, I had a noticeably tighter feel to my pedal.  No
>financial interest, just a good company to work with.  The owner sent me a
>couple of different sizes on good faith to see which fit best.  Here's the
>URL:
>
>http://www.speedbleeder.com/
>
>If you've used 3/4 of a litre, that should be plenty to push any air or old
>fluid out.  What probably happening is that either air is getting in at the
>wheel cylinder, or you've got a leak at the master cylinder.  A master
>cylinder leak doesn't always show itself with leaking fluid.  If the rubber
>is old, air can seep in, and you can tell by looking at the fluid in
>cylinder while the pedal is depressed.  If tiny bubbles appear, you've got
a
>leak.  Hope this helps!
>
>Greg Gowins '69 Sprite
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Robert Duquette
>Sent: Sunday, August 29, 1999 6:26 PM
>To: Spridgets
>Subject: bleedin' brakes
>
>I strongly dislike bleeding brakes!
>
>I found an interesting surprize while in my rear brakes.  One of the
>adjuster wedges was in backwards.  After backing off the adjustment, I
>couldn't adjust back 'cause there was a flat surface in front of the screw.
>
>And a question: "How much fluid should it take to get any air out of the
>line between the MC and the rear wheel on the other side of the car?  Apart
>from the first bit of fluid from that wheel that came out foamy and greyish
>brown, I'm getting bubbleless clear fluid.  (Changed it this spring.)  Any
>yardsticks as to how much to pump through on each wheel?  I've probably put
>three quarters of a litre through so far with no more pedal.
>
>Did I mention that I have a distaste for bleeding brakes? :)
>
>Robert Duquette
>Ottawa ON Canada
>http://www3.sympatico.ca/robertduquette
>RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca
>'65 RHD BRG Sprite
>
>
>



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