WST
Thanks for the info. Would the Speedi-Sleeve number CR 99172 also be
correct when using a stock hub? I've developed an oil leak down the back
side of the backing plate after about 1500 miles on new seals. I'm assuming
that when I tear it down I will discover that the axle is the problem and
will have to sleeve it.
Larry Miller
----- Original Message -----
From: Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson@thicko.com>
To: Thickos <team-thicko@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>;
vintage race list <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 4:59 PM
Subject: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip
> To all,
>
> The Red Rat Bastard #99 was the "test mule" for what turned out to be a
> great solution for the age old Sprite leaking double bearing hub
situation.
>
> The solution? Pretty simple really. First off, the outer bearing is
replaced
> with a sealed bearing. There are two styles available, a steel sided, and
a
> rubber sided. You want the rubber sided bearing. These are sealed for life
> and suitable for high speed applications. The inner bearing is hand
packed
> in hi-speed synthetic grease, and the inner seal rides on a Speedi-Sleeve.
>
> So, the oil in the axle tube sloshes out to the axle cap under cornering,
> bounces off the cap, hits the sealed bearing, and can go no further. The
> bearing packed in synthetic grease seems to motor quite happily.
>
> Initial tests of this setup, using a double lip seal at Road America,
> revealed some minor seepage of grease past the seal. It turns out the
double
> lip seal is about 6 thousandths smaller than the single lip seal... so the
> seal basically fell out of the double bearing hub. I have "peened" the
> inside of my hubs where the seal rides, and with the addition of the
proper
> Loctite, it should stay put. But, since it's not seeing any oil, only
> grease, I suggest using the single lip seal because of it's larger OD. You
> should still glue them in.
>
> A word of caution... when you bend the washer behind the axle nut over the
> nut, be sure not to damage the rubber on the sealed bearing face.
>
> The Speedi-Sleeve may be a different one than you're used to seeing, but
> there's reason for that. It rides all the way in on the axle stub, so that
> the only thing riding on it is the seal, not the inner bearing. The double
> bearing hubs inner bearing won't fit over the sleeve. When installing the
> Speedi-Sleeve, make sure you dress the existing axle stub surface with
> emery cloth. Also, take the installation tool that comes with it and throw
> it away. Find a suitable piece of tailpipe, with the correct ID, and
gently
> tap the Speedi-Sleeve into place... all the way to the backing plate area.
> The lip on the sleeve can stay in place, if it's seated against the back.
>
> Another thing, take the paper axle gaskets and the O ring, and toss them
out
> too. I have used the "Secret Schmoo" method successfully for about 7 years
> of hard racing, and never had any leak from the axle caps. I am running
> stock later model axles, not the overpriced "comp" axles being sold these
> days.... more on this subject later. If you are running the comp axles,
you
> most likely have seepage from the splines. Careful assembley with a
gasket,
> some schmoo, and washer should slow the flow. This works absolutely fine
on
> stock hubs as well. Use Brakeclean on the hub surface and the axle cap.
Use
> a razor blade if necessary to scrape the axle cap clean. Use RTV sealant,
> (blue, black, copper... doesn't seem to matter) applied to the inner
surface
> of the axle cap. No gasket, no O ring. Install the axle. Use the counter
> sunk screws (available from Winner's Circle) with the allen head rather
than
> slotted or Phillips. The reason is that the first one that goes on with
the
> axle, the short one, can be tightened again after the drum and remaining
two
> screws are in place. It doesn't hurt to install and torque the wheels
right
> away, as it makes sure everything that's being glued together is snug.
>
> Also, remember the "driver's side" (on a left hand steering Sprite) axle
nut
> is "reverse thread".
>
> The parts list is as follows...
>
> Sealed bearing SKF 6207-2RS1/C3HT51 available from Berry bearing.
> or MRC 207-SZZ/H501 available from Winner's
> Circle
> There is a bearing available from NAPA that can be cross refenced to the
> numbers above. I paid about $24-$26 from BB or WC, and about $32 from
Napa.
>
> The inner bearing is the one that came with the hub, just packed in
grease.
>
> The Speedi-Sleeve number is Chicago Rawhide CR 99172
>
> The single lip seal is Chicago Rawhide CR 17695
> This is also available through NAPA
>
> You mileage may vary, objects in the mirror may be closer than they
appear,
> I didn't know she was 16...
>
> WST
> Flounder
> Team Thicko
>
>
>
>
>
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