a panhard rod ideally runs horizontally across the rear from axle on 1 side
to chassis/body on oposite side. controlling right to left motion of the
rear axle in the chassis properly and positivly locating the axle inthe
housing as to deter shifting of the axle due to lateral forces as in
cornering. real importaint if you are running wide tires with close body to
tire clearances as in swa spridget, or in a race car at speed.
an anti tramp bar i intended to reduce wheel hop and squat under hard
acceleration. it is designed to reduce or completly(depending on design)
stop the torque from acceleration or deceleration from trying to twist the
rear axle at its mounts . sometimes referd to as spring wrap or warp in 1/2
eliptic springs. early leaf spring cars controlled this action by adding a
extra leaf the entire length of the main spring, wic was a step in the right
direction but resulted in a very stif ride. hot rods enjoyed "traction
bars" or slapper bars wich had a similar effect without the stiff spring
ride but are useless on lbc's due to ground clearances. an anti tramp bar
was used on rally cars and even the 67 camaro's. designed to run paralell
to the leaf spring from the axle housing attachment point forward to the
spring attachment at the chassis as to allow motion of the spring but limit
it's ability to twist under acceleration. wheel hop or tire chatter under
hard acceleration is enough to tear your fillings(if ya gotte'm) right out.
let alone thefact that the tires are literally hopping on the road and not
in contact with the surface doing their job adhering to the surface. under
hard acceleration either straight line or out of a corner if your tire is
not in contact with the road you are not going to get where you wanted to be
when you thought!
a 1/4 eliptic car has anti tramp bars built right in as it's upper links!
the rear is positivly located in that range of motion. and stiffened up with
urethane bushings or heim joints!
chassis design and controll is not a black art! but determining the correct
strength and size of material and proper attachment points are real
importaint if you are the designer. wich is why most people choose to but a
"designed" set up and just install it. all the research and design is done
and you just have to install it.
that is what you are paying for when you purchase a "kit". usually you look
at a kit and say" is that all there is?".............yup! and that'swhy!
someone broke a bunch of stuff untill they worked outthe bugs so you could
just install it.
chuck.
ok-ok! back under my rock!
not bad for guessing out loud huh?
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