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Re: Shipping from midwest

To: pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com, spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Shipping from midwest
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 17:18:31 EST
In a message dated 03/01/2000 11:43:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com writes:

<< I could use some suggestions from the list regarding shipping a large item.
 I believe it has to go truck freight
 
 I have located a hardtop that interests me in Michigan, and need to figure
 out the best(safest) and most economical way to get it to San Francisco.
 
 What sort of shipping container will I have to have made?
 
 Any suggestions, tips?... anybody making a trip west...'-)
 
 Gerard >>
Gerard, 

I would have replied off list but this may be of passing interest to others 
shipping similar parts.

About the only freight companies that will economically take your shipments 
will be LTL companies..Less Than Truckload...such as Yellow, Consolidated 
(CF), Roadway, etc.  Those are the three largest in the catagorie and I would 
use one of them to prevent the shipment being "interlined" from one regional 
carrier to another.

FedEx, UPS, and other small package carriers will not accept it because of 
size.  They all have a maximum of 140 inches length and girth + 150 lbs.

Most other trucks you see on the road are usually TL...Truck Load...carriers 
and they will charge you for using the entire trailer.

Don't even think about air freight...figure $1+ per pound...increased as 
"dimensional weight" and similar packaging requirements.

Packaging...you will want to contact a crating company to build a crate on 
top of a 42" pallet to completely enclose the top in 1/4" plywood.  After 
wrapping with bubble wrap, dunnage, etc.

Freight Classification...don't have my NMFC book here but it should move as 
something like Automotive Parts NOI...and you will want to declare a value 
equal to replacement cost.  All freight is classified and claims are based on 
that classification as well as freight rates.

You can classify this as scrap metal, or scrap plastic and get a better rate, 
but if they break it or lose it, you get paid for scrap...

Estimate the size of you crate and the total weight of crate and top...then 
call one or more of the freight companies (you should get the same price from 
each, suprise?) and get a quote.  Have the zip codes ready for origin and 
destination.

My best guess is that it will cost about $100 to crate and $200 to ship.  
Maybe more as you will not have a discount unless you know a company that 
does a lost of shipping and that will do it under their account.  Heavy 
shippers easily command a 65% discount in normal rates.

Also, you will most probably have to pay the freight COD or up front as they 
will not want to open an account for one shipment.

If you decide to do this, make sure your name, delivery address, and phone 
number and taped to the top inside, and on all sides of the box outside.

The seller will have to handle much of the logistics of having it crated and 
picked up...and should also mark the outside of the crate...Fragile, Glass, 
Do not stack, TOP FREIGHT ONLY...not that a Teamster can read these, but it 
couldn't hurt.

Finally, you may decide that it will be just as cheap to take a couple of 
days and a week end and drive out there and get it.  The Law of Dimenishing 
returns applies to shipping large objects of low value.

By no means do not listen to the guy that says "it should be ok to ship it 
that way"...It WILL be dropped, shoved, pushed, scraped, stood on and 
possibly driven over.  Keep all documentation and be prepared to file a claim.

Hope this helps..

Robert Houston...ask me about shipping small stuff next!

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