Holy mackerel!
This is the bound to get the MOST CREATIVE FIX of the year award.
Ryan has one float bowl overflowing - so what to do? Some DPO
connects a rubber tube between the two overflow pipes!
Second prize is a tie between the guy who filed down a float and
the other guy who used JB Weld to restore it.
Ryan please check that your float bowl is not loaded with gas. I
have seen this undiagnosed lead to engine strips.
Mike L.
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From ryan marro <ryan_marro at hotmail.com>
To: <mlupynec@globalserve.net>; <froggi@cdsnet.net>;
<jboatri@emory.edu>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: November 8, 2000 9:04 PM
Subject: Carbs and alternators Was: Re: "On the road again ..."
(Long)
> List,
> With all of this talk about carbs... I'm thinking or doing that
fuel
> injection conversion to my Bugeye. :-) My carbs (I have a '74
1275 in my
> Bugeye and the associated carbs) would not stop flooding. I
bought the
> Haynes techbook on the carbs, but couldn't figure out the
problem. I spent
> two whole days cleaning them and then another examining them. I
couldn't
> figure out the problem, but suspected that it had something to
do with the
> float not going high enough to close off the needle in the fuel
flow. My
> floats do not have an arm that they push against (that in turn
pushes
> against the needle). My float pivots and directly contacts the
needle.
> Anybody else's work this way? I ended up paying a large amount
of money for
> a resto shop to rebuild them because I could never figure out
what was
> causing the carb closest to the firewall to pump gas out the
overflow. I
> assume this "overflow" was where the air pump hooked in for the
smog stuff?
> When I bought the car, a piece of fuel line was used to connect
these two
> overflows together. The shop said this was unnecessary and
removed it.
> Consequently I was always having gas dumped onto the exhaust
manifold (add
> Lucas, POD, to the equation=keep a fire extinguisher handy, or a
cat with
> which to beat out the flames). Even after the "rebuild" I was
still having
> the problem. Still unable to diagnose the problem, I took it to
another guy
> who said that the previous shop had filed down the top of the
float in an
> attempt to adjust the level of fuel in the float bowl and had
gone too far
> (causing the float to rise too high and allowing fuel to flow
out the
> overflow). He built up the float with JB Weld to correct the
problem.
> Prior to this, I used to take the top off the float bowl and
wiggle the
> float around _vigorously_ and the problem would usually go away.
A British
> thwack, or any other kind, never seemed to work. And this was a
major pain
> in the @ss as I had to do it nearly every time I wanted to drive
the car. I
> can't tell you if the problem is solved yet because I can't keep
the Beast
> on the road (generator prob). I've got a rebuilt Lucas ACR16
alternator to
> install if I can figure out the three wires and how to hook them
into the
> Bugeye's wiring harness. Anybody want to tackle this? Frank
tried to help,
> but couldn't remember what the third wire was for or how to tell
it from the
> other small wire.
> Ryan
>
>
> >From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
> >Subject: Re: "On the road again ..."
> >These very enlightening responses on Grose jets are that not
> >promising. I had heard that they often solved float bowl
flooding
>
>
>
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