Hi Robert,
When I moved from Portland OR to Colorado Springs, all I had to do with my
Morris with an SU carb was to lean it a couple of flats at idle. It was
easy to get it back when I drove it to San Diego or sea level. Never
changed needles. I also never used any additives in this leaded 1098.
Using additives sometimes does a real number on the valves in the way of
deposits. Avoid them. If you burn a valve in normal use, which is
unlikely, then do a lead free conversion on the head. I eventually sold
this engine & trans to Brian Serff in Denver, where as far as I know, still
lives happily in his car.
As for the smog check in Colorado, I was allowed to lean it out while on
the sniffer as the mechanics had not a clue how to do it. I got it to pass
and get a sticker, but had to richen it up in order to make it driveable
again! I had the misfortune to have my smog check due dates fall in the
middle of winter, so it was always a shakey bit if it would pass the
visual due to the condensation exhaust appearance. Eventually my 1275
failed, but it was OK, it was really about shot anyhow!
Now about it munching control boxes every other outing, stick on an
alternator. Cheaper than a new control box. Check with Frank Clarici for
details!
Hope this helps.
Regards, Paul A
FROM: Mike Maclean, INTERNET:macleans at earthlink.net
TO: Robert Latham, INTERNET:Robert.Latham@central.sun.com
CC: Spridgets, INTERNET:spridgets@autox.team.net
DATE: 2/27/01 11:26 AM
Re: Re: Converting a UK Frogeye to USA Bugeye
I don't know about Colorado, but here in California my Bugeye does not
need a pollution check for 2 reasons. The engine is under 1000cc and
the car is older than the 1973 cutoff. The number plates are attached
to the rear of the car directly through holes in the top of the recess
at the back of the boot spaced to fit the holes in the license plate.
The front plate should fit the plinth mounted on the bonnet the same
way.
Your engine should use regular unleaded without using additives
with no problems, unless your CR is above normal. Normal for the 948
class engine is 8.1 to 1. The valve seat recession is not as bad as one
would think without lead additive, but if you're worried use a good top
cylinder lubricant.
I'm not sure about the needle problem as I live close to sea level,
but it would make sense to use leaner needles as the air is less dense
at that altitude. You would have to maintain a correct air-fuel ratio,
but try it with the normal needles first.
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
Robert Latham wrote:
> I moved to Colorado last year and finally took the
> plunge and decided to import my Frogeye. It arrived
> yesterday via a British Airways 777 (a friend in
> the business got a pallet rate cheaper than any
> sea freight charges !!!).
>
> Cleared it through customs and sadly it had to make
> the last 20 miles on the back of a tow truck, after
> the electrics packed up. This Frogeye eats control
> boxes every 50 miles must fix it soon.
>
> So some stupid questions
>
> - after it been for a pollution check it
> will be issued with Colorado plates. So what
> is the best way to attach them. The current
> nmumber plate fits snugly in a recess at the
> back and on a small plate ( no bumper) at the
> front.
>
> - Petrol or Gas - I have 956cc Gold seal engine
> (basically a factory rebuild of the original
> 956cc). I'm inteding to add some STP lead
> subsitute to the tank what rating fuel
> works best.
>
> - Carbs being at 5000ft+ intending to fit some
> lean needles to its HS1 carbs, does this make
> sense.
>
>
> Any other thoughts as to what needs doing - I hope it will
> not need seat belts etc.
>
> Robert
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From Mike Maclean <macleans at earthlink.net>
To: Robert Latham <Robert.Latham@central.sun.com>
CC: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Converting a UK Frogeye to USA Bugeye
References: <200102271417.HAA29211@bast.Central.Sun.COM>
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