You should use the o-ring at the bottom of the kingpin. The seal,
if it's a square x-section, goes on the dust tube. If the king pin is tight
before you have installed the upper trunion, ie. before the upper nut is
torqued, then I suggest you run the reamer through again. I don't know if
you know it, but, the reamer gets used dry, no oil. And, you only turn it
clockwise both going in and coming back out, and that's the hard part. I
hope you have a tap handle that'll allow you to lock the reamer in place.
The king pin should spin freely, but not wiggle.
If the king pin is tight after the upper trunion is installed,
then the upper shims are wrong. Also ensure that the upper bushing surface
is smooth and flush with the knuckle. I usually run a light file across
that surface to save wear and tear on the bronze thrust washer.
HTH Peter C BTDT(and a few other things)
At 02:11 PM 3/21/2001, you wrote:
>I managed to whack out the old bearings in my stub axle the other evening and
>while the Kamasa 14mm long reach socket seems none the worse for wear any one
>can tell by looking at my 1/2" short extension that it has been severely
>absused by the BFH.
>Last night I took the new bearings out of the fridge and with light tapping
>Tonight having unwrapped my brand new tapered reamer I have reamed the
>bearings. Whoever I have found that the new king pin is a REALLY TIGHT FIT
>is it supposed to be really tight? Tight so you can't swivel it by hand in
>the stub axle on the bench.
>What do you think? Given that my reamer is brand new and that I really
>reamed it good and proper I would think it was ok to be really tight it just
>With the king pin kit came a rubber seal and an O-ring I used the seal
>because that was what the old one had. Is the O-ring an alternative and if
>so does it matter which I used?
>I think this is all for now, I have to go and search for my spare trunnion so
>I can finish the build up on the bench.
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)