David,
You are right. I should have said vacuum. Pressure would have to
be applied to the master cylinder side of the circuit. Just substitute
vacuum where you see pressure in my last message. My God, some people
might turn their master cylinders into a brake fluid fountain if they
follow my last email literally. ;^)
Mike MacLean Supercharged 60 Sprite
David McCartney wrote:
> Hey Mike -
> Were you using the mighty-vac to produce vacuum or pressure? Applied
> to
> a lid atop the clutch m/cyl? Funny how when we write these things we
> can
> presume or visualize. "The pump can pull a lot of fluid"? Please
> don't think
> me too picky - I and so many of us are rather slow - and literal.
>
> David
>
>
>
> Maclean Mike wrote:
>
>> Did mine with a MityVac vacuum pump. Got the bleed screw finger
>> tight and rotated it with the clear plastic line to open for vacuum
>> pressure. Build the pressure in the MityVac and then open the bleed
>> screw. Close off the bleed screw finger tight with the plastic
>> tubung and build pressure in the MityVac again. After about 5-10
>> minutes of this the line was bled. When finished, tightened the
>> bleed screw. (be careful and never overtighten a bleed screw. Make
>> sure the master does not run out of brake fluid while doing this
>> process. The pump can pull a lot of fluid through the system (and
>> air bubbles).
>> Mike MacLean Supercharged 60 Sprite
>>
>> David McCartney wrote:
>>
>> > Well Clay, this is an arcane area you have entered. By the time
>> > you have
>> > read everything here, you will begin to think of the Spridget
>> > hydraulic
>> > system as a dark whole.
>> >
>> > First, my dream for a never/next time fix: While you have it out,
>> > make
>> > up an extension to the slave bleed, so it is forward and more
>> > accessible?
>> > Perhaps a flexible brakeline/clutch hoseline with the end fitted
>> > into
>> > the RH footwell with a bleed nipple in there? Hey I really like
>> > that idea!
>> >
>> > I spose higher is better and you could make it long enuf to have
>> > the end
>> > mounted (firmly) up by the masters. Now you can bleed it
>> > comfortably.
>> > These are what I imagine doing if I ever run a ribcase again for
>> > myself.
>> > The first bit of the new bleed line would have to be flex, no
>> > matter what.
>> >
>> > The angle the cyl is mounted at does not facilitate full bleeding
>> > and
>> > of course is torturous to the hands. I noticed a recent list
>> > mention of
>> > jacking up the front of the car to improve the angle and let them
>> > damn
>> > bubbles escape.
>> >
>> > Other bleeding helps are to manually push the piston back to help
>> > bleed
>> > the bubbles, then wait for slow bubbles and bleed. If you have
>> > snaky little
>> > hands, these paragraph's stuff might work for you with no further
>> > mods.
>> >
>> > Pushing the piston back could cause the air to rise up the line to
>> > the
>> > highest point in the line and it is tempting to consider a bleed
>> > screw
>> > at that point, or loosening the fitting while someone is pushing
>> > the
>> > clutch pedal and you take precautions against spraying brake fluid
>> > on
>> > your perfect paint job.
>> >
>> > When first researching this, I got an answer from Moss's help guy:
>> > (Finger-
>> > tight bleed screw, opening with fingertips and listen for bubbles)
>> > and I
>> > found an article on it on the Sac MG club's website written by
>> > Norman
>> > Nock (longstanding shop in Stockton).
>> >
>> > I did manage to get mine to work using a spare tire (low)pressure
>> > bleeding
>> > system and bits of the above so I quit while ahead.
>> > I had a scar for a long time from doing up the top bolt on the
>> > slave.
>> >
>> > One bad solution said to bleed the slave at a better angle by
>> > undoing
>> > the mounting bolts and rotating the slave. I got no satisfaction.
>> >
>> > Did you see the one where the brake hydraulics were used to force
>> > fluid
>> > from that system backwards thru the clutch slave bleeder? Hey why
>> > not.
>> > This gives you some idea of the degree of difficulty. I logged
>> > many hours
>> > trying to do it by the manual without success.
>> >
>> > David McCartney
>> > 71 MIdget
>> > 72 Mini PU
>> > 69 AA
>> >
>> > Clayton La Baw wrote:
>> >
>> > > Spridgeteers -
>> > >
>> > > I recently had a catastrophic loss of clutch function while on a
>> > drive.
>> > > It's amazing how well a really 'used' ribcase works without a
>> > clutch. After
>> > > getting side tracked by a front brake problem that ended up going
>> > all the
>> > > way to a trunnion rebuild (many dismal war stories there!), I got
>> > to the
>> > > slave cylinder on Tuesday last. To say that the bellows was
>> > "perished" is
>> > > to do the word a disservice. The slave cylinder had only one
>> > mounting bolt
>> > > in place. After removing the (bent) clevis pin, the pushrod fell
>> > off on
>> > > the floor. I removed the remaining mounting bolt and the rest
>> > of the
>> > > cylinder dropped down, hanging from the flex hose. I got it onto
>> > the bench
>> > > and found that the inner end of the pushrod had been forced into
>> > the hex
>> > > cavity of a half-inch diameter by half inch length set screw.
>> > This rested
>> > > on top of a 5/8" diameter by half inch long set screw which, in
>> > turn, sat
>> > > in the conical cavity of the piston. There was no circlip, the
>> > bellows
>> > > (formerly) being the only thing holding this all together.
>> > Pulling the
>> > > piston, I found that it was a 'groove-seal' type and that no
>> > "cup" was
>> > > present. Also, a two-inch long (free length) coil spring was
>> > below the
>> > > piston and no cup filler was installed. The cylinder has a
>> > two-row cast-in
>> > > marking: 3233-237C over Q251. It appears that the DPO or his
>> > designated
>> > > paid representative, came up with a hybrid 1275/1500 assembly.
>> > >
>> > > I had neglected this area before 'cuz the clutch worked fine, up
>> > to the
>> > > point of failure, and there were many other demons to chase.
>> > >
>> > > Now my question. After replacing the slave cylinder, I'll bleed
>> > the system
>> > > per the Haynes manual. Regarding paragraph 2.1, what do I need
>> > to know
>> > > about the "clean jam jar"? Flavor? Size? Brand?
>> > >
>> > > Clay L.
>> > > '67 Sprite
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